c4ck4 Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Is it safe to assume I don't need to use any kind of heat shield with the L16 intake since its cooled/warmed by the coolant runners? The heat shield from the previous intake wouldn't fit, plus there is that giant hole in the middle so it doesn't seem like it would do too much anyway. Did they use any kind of shield in their native L16 environment though? And what about the carburetor heat shield and spacer? What's the purpose of that spacer anyway? It does fit on the L16 intake, but I'd have to cut a slot for the coolant hose that the other one didn't have. Is it needed? Totally useless? Heat shield and spacer on the old intake Heat shield and spacer on the new intake Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 The Phenolic spacer isolates the carb from the intake so that you fuel dont boil in the float bowl as the intake wrms up. It is very useful. I never ran a heat sheild on my downdrafts but I dont see it hurting anythig as long as it s out of the way Quote Link to comment
c4ck4 Posted October 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 I've been thinking, since I'm not using an EGR system anyway I don't really need my Thermal Vacuum Valve. I was just planning on leaving it there as a plug but I don't see any reason not to just plumb my intake coolant line in right there. Maybe I'm overlooking something but since its in the same pre-thermostat bypass area, it seems perfect. Plus then I wouldn't have to try and squeeze a T into one of those tight hose curves. I was trying to get this finished up and get my carb on this weekend, but so far I've had trouble finding one of these (see pic below) 1/4 NPT heater hose nipples, at least locally. The TVV port would be the same deal, just a little bit bigger threading. Quote Link to comment
c4ck4 Posted October 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 It took a lot of fiddling to keep the manual choke cable from binding, I think I got it situated finally. I fired it up today, no exhaust yet, and it still needs to be tuned, but it lives! It sounds sweet without the exhaust, I still need to get a Y pipe made for it Quote Link to comment
c4ck4 Posted October 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 I noticed my motor is seizing sometimes while cranking, not every time but most of the time. Like it'll roll over then suddenly stop dead. It seems like something is binding and its making me nervous that I'm going to break something if I keep cranking it or running it. I still need to set the idle and timing so I understand it might not be running great at this point, but the seizing makes me think something important needs to be dealt with before I continue Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 I've been thinking, since I'm not using an EGR system anyway I don't really need my Thermal Vacuum Valve. I was just planning on leaving it there as a plug but I don't see any reason not to just plumb my intake coolant line in right there. Maybe I'm overlooking something but since its in the same pre-thermostat bypass area, it seems perfect. Plus then I wouldn't have to try and squeeze a T into one of those tight hose curves. I'm going to say ... no. The intake coolant would have to fight with the water behind the thermostat. Both would be at the same relative pressure from the water pump. The thermostat, even when open, will hold back some of the water pressure from the head and the intake coolant would flow better around this. I noticed my motor is seizing sometimes while cranking, not every time but most of the time. Like it'll roll over then suddenly stop dead. It seems like something is binding and its making me nervous that I'm going to break something if I keep cranking it or running it. I still need to set the idle and timing so I understand it might not be running great at this point, but the seizing makes me think something important needs to be dealt with before I continue The battery sounds like it is low on charge or dirty connection. Check the battery terminals are tight and clean also the starter lug and the ground cable where it bolts to the head behind the fuel pump. Jumper power from another vehicle.... if it cranks normally then this is the problem. You may have a charging problem or not running long enough to charge between starts.. Quote Link to comment
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