Jeremiah720 Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 So I been researching for a few months on the Z24 for my turbo build. So far I learned it has big main bearings. Great for strength cross flow head. Great for boost. But I read that it has very thin cylinder walls that would probably only hold 13lbs before giving. Is this true? I'm wanting to run 15lbs boost on the Z24 forged rods, pistons and ARP studs. Not sure what I'm gonna do for a head gasket yet. However if I have to sleeve the dam thing I will. And after that its balls to the wall on the build. Might as well do forged crank and go for 25psi. So I guess my questions are. Can I expect the block to hold 15lbs on a stock crank? I wasnt wanting to sleeve it. Maybe if I can get away with 10lbs Reliably I might be happy with that. I'm currently buying all my parts for EFI. Which I must thank wayno for the awesome z22 manifold he had laying around. Any advice would be great. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 The cylinder walls are as thick as any other L or Z series engine. The head gasket would always be the weakest link. Have the block O ringed if you are going to turbo it and run a stock Z24 gasket. Happy boosting. Take a good look at these two rods. They are interchangeable but I think you would agree the one on the right looks slightly beefier. The I beam is thicker, even has larger threaded nuts. Yes, it's from a Z24. The other thinner one? Oh it's from a KA24E. The lighter thinner KA rods will make 150 stock hp and survive up to around 300 hp turboed before they need stronger ones. Quote Link to comment
Jeremiah720 Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 So should I get forged connecting rods or do you think Ill be fine on the Stock rods. My goal hp is around 250 - 300 Quote Link to comment
Jeremiah720 Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 The ka is stock with forged rods and pistons right? What's the z24 rods made of? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Have no idea what the KA rods are. The stock Z24 rods are just fine. Don't over think this. Quote Link to comment
Jeremiah720 Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Yeah I do a lot of over thinking I suppose. Just covering all the angles of my build. If anything would happen to go wrong Ill have a spare z24 as I am looking for a Z24 to build on the side and swap as my 720 is my daily. I'm pretty set on using the z24 for this build. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 The Z24 is a low revving engine that makes it's torque at 2,800. It is not a high revving engine because of the head design. The ports are at a poor angle for good breathing, the valve lift cannot be increased or they touch, the valve springs are not great.... and none of this matters much as it doesn't have to rev to get the job done. A turbo will cure most of the breathing problems so this engine is going to want to rev more. I would ask sealik what valve springs he replaced his with. I think Ford... something. They should fit a Z series engine and being stiffer will rev higher without floating. I would definitely stay away from 7K. 5,500 is the red line on the stock 720 tach but 6k should be safe. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Get a set of forged pistons and Arp rod bolts in it. The crank will be fine. The rods and crank are forged. They do make turbo cam grinds for z heads, one of those and some springs and ud be good to go Quote Link to comment
Jeremiah720 Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Those were the answers I was looking for. I just want to cover the weak points of the engine the best I can. I want a lil more power but still reliable. I'll message sealik to see what valve springs he used. Ty mike and scooter Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 I'm planning around 350 wheel on the bottle and I have stock rods with Arp bolts. They are actually a pretty good rod, for stock. With forged pistons the only thing that will really make the bottom end come apart is too much rpm. With an appropriate turbo, like a t25 or similar, it will be a stump puller. The more u. Put into your injection and ignition control and a good tune and you'll be able to get lots out. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to get close to ka24et numbers. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Hmmm stock hyper-eutectic pistons are only good for about 5-8 pounds of boost with very short blips to 10 pounds. Stock pistons are about 17% silicon. Hard as glass and also very brittle. Yes I assumed you would have forged aluminum. Quote Link to comment
Jeremiah720 Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 The turbo I planned on using is a TD04HL since I already have it laying around the garage and saves cash on my build. Its not too big of a size difference from the t25. And its in great shape with no shaft play. Coolant and oil cooled for more reliability and I'm getting a all aluminum radiator to help deal with any addition heat. I Should probably start a build thread soon. Does it sound like I have everything covered? Any recommendations for a oil filter adapter for the turbo oil line? I was just gonna get sandwich plate . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 Every effort no matter how small should go towards reducing heat. Heat is what causes detonation and it's easier to reduce this than deal with it later. Cool air ducting, water/alcohol injection, inter cooler, oil cooler, heat shields A fitting on the oil sender hole in the block below the intake would work, with copper line to the turbo. If anything on the filter get an oil cooler. Turbo is going to cook the oil and you need lots of cooling. Hottest parts of the engine are cooled by the oil. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Ford v8 winsor oil filter adaptors fit. If you have one of those tubes that goes deep into the oil filter you have to pull that off. Quote Link to comment
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