A15: Protection from the Elements

[Kirden]

Hey guys, so I've ran into a problem with my A15 and I now need to remove my head so that the machine shop can modify my R1 manifold and Kirk headers flanges to fit together (two different style flange patterns). I've tried finding an A-series head to use for the manifold mock up or bolt to the block so that I could plug it up and keep the cylinders protected, but that has been a no go. I've thought about just grinding the flanges myself, but I'm a chicken shit...

 

So, if I do not end up pulling the bottom end for a rebuild, what is the best way to protect the cylinders for an extended amount of time? I was thinking I could have someone make me a block off plate, oil the cylinders up and bolt the plate down to keep out moisture, but that hasn't really worked out either. I do not have a garage, shed, or enough room to pull the engine and move it inside (yet). If I decide to rebuild it I will get rid of my VG33 and throw the A15 in the house for a rebuild.

[DanielC]

I would get some fogging oil, it is used to protect the cylinder walls of boat engines over the winter.  Spray it on the cylinders, and cover the cylinder block machined surfaces with it.   Cover the block with something solid, a board, put plastic sheet over that.

Put the hood back on the car.   If you can get a portable shelter of some kind, put that over the car.  Try to keep rain from falling directly on the car.

[Kirden]

I can get a car cover pretty easily. I was mainly worried about it because of the humidity down here in GA. Do you think a flat section of plastic/metal would be enough if I put a brick or something on top of it?

[DanielC]

The fogging oil is most important.  It has a wax in it that is left behind as the solvents evaporate.  The wax protects the metal from rust.  But the problem with an open engine then is preventing dirt, and dust from sticking to the waxy oil left behind.

[Kirden]

For giggles, I should probably show the pictures of the manifolds huh?

 

Don't have a direct view of the exhaust flange:

 

Here is a good view of the Intake:

 

As you can see the exhaust is the 3 piece A-series flange style, where the Intake is the 5 piece design. The options are to either cut the metal that connects the exhaust flange or grind down the intake flange so that it fits over the exhaust flange. Since the intake has so much more material to work with I think it will be better to modify the intake flange. The metal that connects the intake was just for fabrication purposes and will be removed.

[Kirden]

The fogging oil is most important.  It has a wax in it that is left behind as the solvents evaporate.  The wax protects the metal from rust.  But the problem with an open engine then is preventing dirt, and dust from sticking to the waxy oil left behind.

 

What would you suggest for storing an engine block for 2-4 weeks? I would hope that the machine shop doesn't take that long, but we all know relying on other people to complete stuff on time doesn't usually work out. Would placing shrink wrap over the block and then covering that with something flat and heavy do the trick to seal in the fogging oil?

[datzenmike]

Georgia is dry. WD-40 and cover with garbage bag.

[Kirden]

Our humidity has stayed around 70-80% for the past 3 weeks. Sadly GA is not dry like Arizona or Texas. We have wet sticky heat and lots of summer rain.

[DanielC]

I was assuming Georgia was humid.  I took a trip to Washington, DC. in the Summer, in 1985, and getting off the plane on the east coast, it feels like you walk in to a wall of "something".

 

The fogging oil should protect the engine block for a few months.  Shrink wrapping the engine will help keep the engine clean, but not so much protection from the humidity.

 

Air expands and contracts with changes in atmospheric pressure, and temperature.  I doubt you could get any shrink wrap sealed tight enough to prevent air from moving in and out of the shrink wrapped engine block.  With the exchanging of the air, you can get humidity into the shrink wrap.

 

I do not think this can happen in the summer, but as we get into the fall, you can have more extreme temperature changes.  The problem with this is that is the cast iron block can cool down, and if the weather changes to a warm humid front, it is possible to actually have condensation on the block, until the block and air temperature equalizes again.