napsZ Posted July 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 well.....i figured it out. the people who sent me the head went out of business. for a good reason. that knocking sound was the valve seats in cylinder #1 falling out and bouncing around. so anyway. i am now doing a turbo ka24de swap and i will drive ol sad panda around until i have the engine and parts built. Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 got tired of the head and swapped back. rebuilt the old head and its running great! weber 32 36 is letting this engine rev to 6k i have 18 degrees of advance of 88 octane and i'm not having any issues whatso ever with knocking. i do have a vacuum leak but i figure as much that will be dealt with in time. i will be pulling the z20 head apart to figure out what was making such a racket. me thinks cam shaft or cam journal. i'll blue print it and share my findings. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 KA24DE pistons are not used in L/Z hybrid builds. That is actually my piston of choice when building a 2200 long rod motor, which is my favorite motor on the planet by the way. You can't cut enough off a 12 valve piston to get the right compression when running a closed chamber head, but the DE piston has that nice dish in it. Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 yup figured out what was the problem. these are .1" divots in the rocker arms. explains the horrific ticking and why this company no longer exists.https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1393923_10203367986978827_7506851593055083673_n.jpg?oh=90642fbf8cec8b6ab516610de24c8882&oe=5465941D&__gda__=1416454519_57dc8738fb0c04668df62292bdbaa1e7 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 If those are stock Z series rockers then what oil were you using? Most of today's oils are too low on ZDDP Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 i use cheapo break in oil with zinc additive. it started tapping the instant it fired up. Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 i have rebuilt the head and solved all of its issues. i have the stock head back on and its runing like a top. the high compression head is going back on in a few weeks when i have my high compression crx back up to helena. "need some form of a daily". i will be dialing back some of my extras i will use the stock z20 cam and just do the head swap for now "intake carb and headers as bolt ons" i'm only looking for 200 hp or there abouts with this build on 91 pump gas.i weighed the truck at 2500 pounds so 160 hp per ton should be a perfectly acceptable daily rat truck. i even have passanger seat and a radio. so poiled. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2015 Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 200hp from a NAPS head is... ambitious. How did you trim your 720 down to less than a 620???? Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted January 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 no bumpers, new exhaust, no ac,stripped interior, no camper shell, lightweight seats, new radiator,new wheels new tires, leaf springs and no spare. Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted January 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2015 with me in it and carpets its about 2700 Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 its been a long time. and i do apologize. BUT!! here is the update on my Frankenstein project!the cam shaft disolved in my napz20 head and destroyed the rocker arms. i rebuilt the head and got new rocker arms. next i installed a comp cams 260 camshaft and a weber 38/38 outlaw carburetor. so it has a cam, high compression, and a big carb. and i just finished installing a 53mm turbocharger and it runs like a champ! 8 psi of boost and she screams through the gears. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Run a cold air intake from in front of the rad. This will lower the heat content in the intake air. When compressed, air gets hot enough to self ignite the fuel and is called pre ignition and will destroy an engine before you can let off the gas. The cooler the air the more you can compress it without worry. Maybe an inter cooler in front of the rad. Compressed air concentrates the heat contained in it. The inter cooler sheds this heat, again lowering the intake air temperature. Oil cooler. Prevents heat spikes from boosting. Turbos are so hot they will coke or break down oil. They need lots of cool lubricating oil. KA24E or DE oil pumps from Hardbodys have larger internal rotors and can move more oil. Great for engines that need more oil for a turbo. A water alcohol injection kit to cool the intake air by absorbing heat by alcohol evaporation. Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 i already have a oil pump from a k engine :) and as for pre ignition or knock i have been paying special attention to the air fuel ratio and dropping ignition advance as needed, along with a set of colder plugs. if i do end up inter-cooling this pig i'll prolly go with a water to air with a recirculating pump. " i just don't like the way an air to air looks jutting out of the front of this truck". i'm running low enough boost that most of these concerns should be fairly low threats. my biggest worry is oil leaks as these are cork sealed engines. even though i did redesign the entire pcv system with parts from work "i'm a mechanic for a Honda dealership". for now i'm going to drive it and tinker until i find something that is causing an actual problem. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Ha ha I assumed the usual... that boost leads to more boost to more boost. There have been lots of factory turbos and all are 5-8 PSI and live forever on a pretty much stock carb and pistons. An inter cooler doesn't do much good there. Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 i built the engine just to be a smart ass anyway lol the right thing to do is just swap a ka24de in or sr20. but too many people told me not to do this so i'm keeping it ^_^ i only know of two people with a turbo napz. but this also opens up a huge amount of other cars i can play with cause this is a stock weber 38." i do need to rejet it cause it goes lean at the higher rpms. and i dont like lean. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 That's the trouble with a synchronous carb. A progressive or vacuum secondary you can jet the second barrel much richer so it's only used at max boost. Quote Link to comment
napsZ Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 i dont really know of any resources on how to jet a weber 38 for boost. i kinda figured boost would be the best possible case for a carb. "everything else i do is fuel injection you just dont see carbs any where else." i'm playing around but i will most likely figure out napz dont like making power..... and swap in a ka24e and turbocharge that. seeing as the headers match up. Quote Link to comment
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