HRH Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 I'm quite fond of my turbines. I might get rid of them though, we'll see. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Hey HRH you might wanna read this guy he autocrossed this 84 maxima with a L28ET swap got good numbers I'm sure if you turbo charge your L24E it would run like a bat out of hell! http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/maxima.asp Been thinking about this very thing! Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 I'm going to do it on mine already have turbo, turbo manifold, intake manifold & injectors I just need the harness and ECU. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Also, has anyone noticed, I'm herrafrushed now? I'm so happy, I'm crying with joy. Thank god! :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Power Tryp Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Not quite, needs more low. MOAR! Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 I love the new wheels looks good! Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 My buddy in portland bought the black 82 maxima turbo pretty cheap had a blown maxima 5 speed, replaced with a ZX 5 speed and is now up and running again. He has 2 810's as well as couple z cars. 2 Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 Nice!, Tell him to get on Ratsun. 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Freakin' sweet! I didn't even see this post, glad someone good got the turbo Maxima. It really pissed me off talking to that douchebag who was selling it. I'm about to head off into the garage to start the lightening on Ugly Betty. So far the front bumper weighs 35 pounds, but I'm debating if I can truly get rid of it. Thinking I may attach a small piece of tube and then just delicately mount the bumper cover on it. I'm worried about aerodynamics with removing the bumper entirely. 1 Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Full tube front end conversion time. I would like to see what you come up with though for the bumper. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I've made my bodyman neurotic with all my hair-brained ideas, lol. Interesting a hardbody front bumper is very close to fitting, as is the hardbody grill. Alas, the three angles of the grill make it very hard to line up appropriately with the headlight buckets and grill. I photoshopped on a 620 grille, which usually looks badass. On the maxima, it looked terrible. Like a Peugeot. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 So far Front bumper 35 lbs Rear bumper 30 lbs Rear seat bottom 8 lbs Rear seat top (surprisingly) with fold down arm rest 20 lbs Rear upper and lower foam padding 6 lbs (3 each) Next will be the doors, I know there is a TON of weight in door panel material and glass. That's 99 pounds removed so far. Granted, something will happen on the front for a grill/bumper something, but I'll keep it to a minimum. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Okay, have a whole bunch of pictures, and the weight is flying off! Front doors were about 23 pounds of weight savings including the glass, regulators, door lock actuators, glass channel guides and rubber weatherstripping in the channels and the reinforcement bar in the inside top edge. Pretty bitching really, they have the outside girder and the inside, if you get whacked in the side in the Maxima I'm thinking you'll have a pretty decent chance of not getting squished. Rear were about the same, so figure 23 pounds time 4, that's 92 pounds out of the doors. The carpet was a bitch to pull up, it's very well glued down on the edges and pretty thick. Carpet weighed 20 pounds. Not quite sure what amount the asphalt coating will be, but it should be a decent amount. I think the rubber removed from the doors weighed in at 8 pounds, which I added after the 23 pounds, so that's 25 pounds per door. I've lost track of what all is coming out, but short of it is, I think I may get down to 2300 pounds pretty easily. Oh yeah, the seats weigh 36 pounds a piece. I have an aluminum seat downstairs that weighs about 5 pounds. I may end up getting some poly seats from Summit, but if I can make the other seat work then great. Debating if I want to put a passenger seat in or not. Every pound counts since I'm chasing a more powerful car. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 So here is ugly Betty as she sat before the cold snap. Ended up using the ugly stock wheels off the new wagon so I could stick the race tires in the basement for the winter. No bumper! Removed that and a headlight bucket to take down to Regy's farm to put the best set of buckets and bumper on the new wagon. For the rear bumper, you have to remove the upper trim piece first, then the bumper cover, THEN you can get the remaining bumper mounting bolts hidden behind the cover. Unlike the front, it doesn't look too bad minus the bumper in the rear. Next, out came the rear seats. With that done, we turned our attention on the doors. This is about the most interesting way of keeping the belt molding on. They're little plastic clips in rectangles. You give them a half twist and they just come right out. They're almost like the headlight bucket and grille clips that turn 90 degrees to release. Note the arrow points up when the molding is installed on the door. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 It seems they use some sealant for the quarter glass molding. It's mentioned in the FSM. I'm sure being 1984 original doesn't help either. I had to destroy both quarter glass moldings to get them out without breaking them. Rather annoying. Not like they were in good condition anyway, but something to remember should you need to replace them. Glue, bah. Almost bare door. The inner skin door bar reinforcement. The other is mid-door on the outside skin. Double channel steel girder type. Starting on the front door. Those pull handles are about 2.5-3 pounds by themselves. Stopped short of scraping asphalt tonight, but she's bare! And with that, I'm done for the night! She's sitting noticeably higher now. And yes, I'm even removing the stereo. Bummer. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Dude, can you save me a piece of the quarter window molding? I need to match it up to something so I can replace mine. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Yeah, but I only have the piece that butts up against the window channel. The back edge I cut with a razor trying to get it out. Have you checked a glass shop to see if they can still get that molding from ppg? I can still get glass for it, but I didn't check for moldings. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Well this is interesting. I just started looking up the information for the coil springs on the wagon. The front isn't a problem, I know I can use the front springs from the 280zx kit I put on the sedan. Hopefully I can just buy two fronts. The rear coil spring for the wagon according to the 1983 FSM is .531 diameter wire, 4.59 coil diameter, and a free length of 12.28 inches. The rate is a wussy 196 pounds/inch. However, that may be plenty considering the front springs are 126.6 lbs/inch. Odd, considering even the diesel is supposed to have the same spring rate in the front. However, the spring is longer. Actually, there appear to be three options. GL is .531 diameter wire, 5.91 coil diameter, and 13.37 free length. The Deluxe is is .512 diameter wire, 5.91 coil diameter, and 12.78 free length The diesel is .531 diameter wire, 5.91 coil diameter, and 14.02 free length. So it seems they must have just accounted for weigh by making sure the coil compresses to the point where it deadens some links, thus increasing the spring rate. The IRS sedans all go the same spring rate of 112 lbs/inch. The main annoyance here is the non-standard size of the springs. However, given the rate in the rear, I may well be able to increase the front spring rate and have it not be so squishy, and I'll just cut a little off the rear springs to lower it and slightly increase the spring rate. Think that should work. Or, I can have custom springs made, which is probably more money than I want to spend. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Oh, and here's this. The version we DIDN'T get, because we had 6 cylinders! :) Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Lighter=faster Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Yeeeesssssss! And that means I don't have to build a uber hp motor. Just shed the pounds! Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Most of the asphalt coating is off, definitely going to be 30 pounds worth. Finished up to the ECU from this picture. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 Gamez, check page 1, you may have to call MSA to get the specs on the Eibach kit. I had an invoice from the Eibach kit that specified spring rate, but I can't find it now. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Yeeeesssssss! And that means I don't have to build a uber hp motor. Just shed the pounds! Up next: door and fender removal!! Quote Link to comment
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