dakotahchore Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 Been at this for almost two months, time to see if anyone can lend some assistance... So I fully rebuilt my 93 KA24DE and I'm having some issues with getting her to idle... She idles well and has nice throttle response without the MAF plugged in. MAF goes in, she revs up then dies. Will barely start with MAF plugged in and dies soonafter. MAF was tested good on another KA and I even replaced it with another tested MAF so I know the sensor isn't the problem. I cleaned the shit out of the IACV after taking it off and resealing it. I am getting a code 13, replaced the coolant temp sensor and it doesn't want to go away for some reason. Nothing seems to be helping... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWoe0kIs87U Quote Link to comment
frisco510 Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 had a similar problem it was my harness when I eliminated wires I didn't need I did something wrong swap in diff harness all good now Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 had a similar problem it was my harness when I eliminated wires I didn't need I did something wrong swap in diff harness all good now Yeah... I kind of feel like an idiot. I had a working harness that I tried modifying; ended up not being able to leave safe mode. Bought another and tried to be a lot more careful but obviously I'm having issues. The CTS plug was reading 5v on the ground so I grounded it directly and cleared the code, but I'm imagining there's something wrong deeper in the harness because it didn't fix the problem . Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 I had a similar problem, and tried a new MAF, IACV cleaning, checked for vacuum leaks ... but a used $40 ECU fixed the problem I think my shitty wiring, or moisture in the ECU, fried the ECU; and it wouldn't run for more than 4 seconds with the MAF plugged in 1 Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 Well.. I think I'm gonna try getting a new wiring harness and ECU. I am having some voltage issues in the harness as stated above.. Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 Indy, did you open your ECU up and inspect it? I did so and I can't find anything visibly wrong. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 The fried ECU's that I've come across have something visibly wrong on the board once you crack em open, doesn't mean it still couldn't be bad. I would lean towards ecu then go to wiring Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 I'd check your temp sensor through the harness. Make sure its reading the proper resistance from the ecu plug. Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 The fried ECU's that I've come across have something visibly wrong on the board once you crack em open, doesn't mean it still couldn't be bad. I would lean towards ecu then go to wiring It sounds like the issue i was having with my ECU and it fixed once we plugged your good ECU into my car. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 It sounds like the issue i was having with my ECU and it fixed once we plugged your good ECU into my car. That's what I was thinking, but your ecu for sure had some fucked up components Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 So I got my KA wired up and all that and it runs really rough/low idle off throttle. I can rev it up nicely. Seems like the timing is off but I checked multiple times, rotor was lined up to plug 1 at TDC. Mechanical timing was done correctly. When I unplug the MAF to force safe mode it idles really smooth although kind of high. If I fully retard distributor, it doesn't want to run at all. Advancing it all the way helps keep it running but barely. Cracking the throttle body is idles a lot better but still seems off time/maybe misfiring. IACV was taken out and cleaned, coolant temp and sender are new, wiring harness is unmodified besides fuel pump wiring and ecu power wire and pulled from a working s13. Tried 2 known working MAFs and ECUs, no change. No error codes. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Try adjusting the idle screw on the iacv Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted January 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Try adjusting the idle screw on the iacv It's all the way unscrewed almost. Didn't seem to help really, in fact I can't even tell if my IACV is working at all because unplugging those three things on the back of the intake doesn't really change anything about how it runs. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Well that's strange, was it ever screwed in? Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Yes, pre rebuild. I unscrewed it trying to fix the idle. Screwing it in doesn't seem to change anything. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Very strange, sounds like the issue that freekwonder was having and his ended up being the ecu. You said you used a known good ecu and it didn't fix it so I am at a loss with what it could be Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Yeah, I have two ECU's and one was pulled from a working S13 along with a totally virgin wiring harness. I only cut fuel pump wires and didnt go any further into the harness so I don't see how it could be wiring. I'm so lost here. Quote Link to comment
filthy forever Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 check to see if you getting a reference voltage (usually 5v) from your ecm, do a voltage drop on the ground wire, and then check signal voltage coming out of the MAF (the voltage readings should increase when opening the throttle). Quote Link to comment
filthy forever Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 also, unlikely but maybe the cause, check your TPS voltages. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Check your grounds too Quote Link to comment
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