Turn Signals, Brake, Oil-P, CHG, Fuel Gauge, and Temp Gauge just went out.

[0r0B210]

 

So as mentioned in the title: my turn signals do no light or flash (but the emergency lights work perfectly), the Brake indicator light, Oil-P, CHG, Fuel Gauge, and Temp Gauge all stopped working last night while driving.  Any ideas?

 

I read a few threads in regards to this but all of my relays, regulators, and fuse box are all clean.  

 

Every time I put a 10A fuse in the 'Meter, Flasher, Back L.' it blows upon turning the key to the on position.  

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks guys!

 

Oh, Sorry- I have a '76 B210.  

[datzenmike]

Well the blowing fuse points the way doesn't it. I see the reverse lamps are on this fuse.

 

On the passenger side of the transmission is a plug for the reverse lamps. If you have an automatic there is also a switch for the interlock but for now just disconnect the one for the reverse lamps. I'm guessing that both wires are Red/Black stripe. if you can disconnect them, then try fitting a new fuse.

 

My reasoning is that if there is damage to any wires it will be (likely) be along the floor or under the rear seat, (pinched wire?) maybe the trunk?  on it's way to the rear tail lights outside the cab. If you unplug the switch it and that fixes the problem you know where to start looking.

[0r0B210]

Well the blowing fuse points the way doesn't it. I see the reverse lamps are on this fuse.

 

On the passenger side of the transmission is a plug for the reverse lamps. If you have an automatic there is also a switch for the interlock but for now just disconnect the one for the reverse lamps. I'm guessing that both wires are Red/Black stripe. if you can disconnect them, then try fitting a new fuse.

 

My reasoning is that if there is damage to any wires it will be (likely) be along the floor or under the rear seat, (pinched wire?) maybe the trunk?  on it's way to the rear tail lights outside the cab. If you unplug the switch it and that fixes the problem you know where to start looking.

 

Thanks for the advice,

 

I checked the back up switch on the transmission (4-speed manual), and there was nothing wrong with it.  I cleaned the battery terminals, as another post had mentioned on another thread, and it actually fixed the problem, but a few minutes later the fuse blew.  Could the flasher be defective and not be grounded?  Dang, but that flasher has nothing to do with my temp and fuel gauges not working.  I hope this doesn't turn into a 'major surgery' of the electrical system.  I am convinced it is something simple.  I mean, it's a pretty barbaric car.  Or am I not giving it enough credit?  Sorry, I am just in a hopeless state right now.  

[datsunaholic]

It's usually not the transmission switch but the wires to the switch.  The fuse blows because there's a short somewhere that gets power only with the key on- like the wires going to the reverse light switch..  Hazards are a different fuse, but everything else- signals, reverse lights, gauges, and idiot lights all use the same fuse.

 

My 76 620 had that happen 2 years ago, and it was because the insulation on the wires that go to the switch had worn through, 20 inches away from the switch.  Was intermittent, but hit a bump, wire touched chassis, an no more meter fuse.  

[0r0B210]

It's usually not the transmission switch but the wires to the switch.  The fuse blows because there's a short somewhere that gets power only with the key on- like the wires going to the reverse light switch..  Hazards are a different fuse, but everything else- signals, reverse lights, gauges, and idiot lights all use the same fuse.

 

My 76 620 had that happen 2 years ago, and it was because the insulation on the wires that go to the switch had worn through, 20 inches away from the switch.  Was intermittent, but hit a bump, wire touched chassis, an no more meter fuse.  

 

Thanks for the advice,

 

I will look into that because the wires are clean from and close to the switch, so it must be somewhere in the wire tangles.  All of the wires from the alternator, battery, and reverse light switch are perfect, so it must be somewhere in the tangles or something.  Dang, sounds like I am getting ready for surgery.  

[0r0B210]

So, after speaking to a couple friends, they mentioned I should check the actual sockets for the back up lights because they themselves might be causing the short- they are plastic, old, and brittle so they might be crossing wires within the socket.  Thanks to all.  Too dark out, and a flashlight won't do my eyes justice for this investigative work.  

[roboskittle]

Easiest way to find the issue is start removing one of the problematic systems from the circuit and try a fuse. If it still blows the fuse put that system back into the circuit and move on. Eventually you will remove the faulty system from the circuit and the fuse will not blow which will than tell you which system in the circuit you need to dig into. Good luck on your search.

[roboskittle]

Oh and I don't mean cut wires I mean disconnect your lights or bulbs or relays or flashers or instrument cluster.

[0r0B210]

Oh and I don't mean cut wires I mean disconnect your lights or bulbs or relays or flashers or instrument cluster.

 

Thank you ROBOSKITTLE!  That is exactly what one of my friends said about the back up lights- "Remove the lights, put a new fuse.  if it does not blow, then you found your problem."  This advice is perfect for someone like that is on an extreme budget.  Peace Brother.

[datzenmike]

This is why I suggested unplugging the reverse lamp switch and not just the bulbs. This eliminates a whole lot of wiring and connections.... or points the way to them. The wiring could have damage where it runs along the floor or under the rear seats, could have been something hitting it in the trunk or damaged harness at the lamps themselves. You would have to unplug the switch or the round connector near the pass side motor mount that goes to the starter and transmission, replace the fuse and turn the key on. Looking is just not enough.

[roboskittle]

All it takes is one split in the insulation and the wire to be touching the chassis, another wire, etc. I do a lot of wire maintenance on Aircraft and trust me when I say it I have seen just about every scenario. Wiring is one of my biggest pet peeves and is usually the first thing I fix on any car I buy. I hope you get this sorted out there is a lot of sound advice already. I am not an expert on this car so I can't point you to the most common failures but take my advice and the advice of others with common failure points and I'm sure you can get this whipped.