0r0B210 Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Hello, again. I have a question: When I idle with the clutch pedal on the floor it idles fine. But, when I release it it idles rough. What could this be? It drives fine in a gears, including reverse. It engages each gear strong, like it should, but when Idling there is a noticeable difference between clutch pedal pressed in, and depressed all the way. I keep finding new things wrong with this little guy. New oil leaks near fuel pumps (it drips oil from the motor mount, and the closest thing to that is the fuel pump). It seems as if the more the engine gets back to working conditions the true nature of the condition before I bought it comes out. Sucks, cuz I am on a tight budget. ANyway, any guidance and/or advice is ALWAYS appreciated. Peace guys. -Octavio 6192139382. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Just replace the fuel pump gasket. 2$ or make one out of a cereal box. Does it idle OK if you use the hand brake and do not touch the brake pedal? Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Most of the idle issues I've had came from vacuum leaks. Check the condition of all the vacuum hoses, particularly the one that goes to your brake booster. With the worn out brackets and old metal, pressing in the clutch may put just enough pressure on the brake pedal to seal a small vacuum leak and cause better idle. Hope you figure it out and good luck. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 California, land of emissions. Have a look on the clutch pedal for a switch with wires. Some later vehicles had transmission and clutch switches to turn on and off and modify the emissions system functions. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 California, land of emissions. Have a look on the clutch pedal for a switch with wires. Some later vehicles had transmission and clutch switches to turn on and off and modify the emissions system functions. Thanks, I will look for that. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Just replace the fuel pump gasket. 2$ or make one out of a cereal box. Does it idle OK if you use the hand brake and do not touch the brake pedal? Using the brakes does not affect the idling. But pressing the clutch is what is the issue. But I will buy the fuel pump gasket/spacer for it. Thank you, sir. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Rarely does the spacer need replacing, though if it is cracked it should be replaced. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Rarely does the spacer need replacing, though if it is cracked it should be replaced. The only thing I know it that it drip oil from the motor mount, and the only things close to that are the oil pump, and fuel pump, and I have determined the oil pump is not leaking. So I figure it is the fuel pump. I just wanted some confirmation from some Datsun guys. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 I agree with Mike - I'd be looking on the clutch pedal for any kind of switch. I didn't think B210 had any although some of the B310s certainly do. For the oil leak, clean the area (I use spray ether on cold engine), then after running the engine you may be able to tell where the new leakage is coming from. Why start replacing stuff before you find the leak? If could be the distributor seal, the rocker cover gasket (very common) or even the head gasket as the head gasket oil passage is right above the distributor. The rocker cover should be snugged down at least once a year, as it always leaks, even new gaskets will leak. Use two fingers on a screw-driver to snug it down as too much torque will ruin the gasket. Using a wrench or fisted screwdriver will deform the gasket. Tiny bolts need tiny torque. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Gaskets do not crack. The cause of a cracked spacer is overtightening. Small bolts require small torque. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 Gaskets do not crack. The cause of a cracked spacer is overtightening. Small bolts require small torque. I am going to follow your advice and clean the area thoroughly and look for the leak. I am hoping it is something simple like the dipstick gasket or something. We will see. Thanks for the advice/guidance. It really means a lot. -Octavio. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 That reminds me ... check to make sure the PCV system is connected and working. The PCV releaves internal pressure of the engine (crankcase Ventilation) and if disconnected allows the engine to pressurize and blow oil out. 1 Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 That reminds me ... check to make sure the PCV system is connected and working. The PCV releaves internal pressure of the engine (crankcase Ventilation) and if disconnected allows the engine to pressurize and blow oil out. That is great advice! I have been meaning to change the basic tune up parts and vacuum lines, but I have decided to wait until I find the leak. I bet the leak was caused by the pcv being stuck though. Thanks for that, sir. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 That reminds me ... check to make sure the PCV system is connected and working. The PCV releaves internal pressure of the engine (crankcase Ventilation) and if disconnected allows the engine to pressurize and blow oil out. My breather hose goes directly into the Air Cleaner, but even still the PCV definitely sounds like the culprit. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 3, 2013 Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 The top breather hose should go directly to the air cleaner. I bet the leak was caused by the pcv being stuck thoughYou can easily tell. Unscrew the PCV valve and shake it. If it doesn't shake inside then it is stuck. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted December 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2013 The top breather hose should go directly to the air cleaner. You can easily tell. Unscrew the PCV valve and shake it. If it doesn't shake inside then it is stuck. I will do that. The Chilton also recommends using my finger to cover the top to feel for escaping air. If no escaping air, it is stuck. Either way, thank you for that. I am about 80% that it is the PCV. It is just so logical that if the PCV is clogged, the crank is building pressure. It needs to escape somehow. Thank you, sir. Hopefully on Friday I will know, A: where the leak is coming form, and B: if the PCV is functioning properly. -Octavio. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.