Datsunrider71 Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 I can't see the notch and the motor is on TDC Do I have to take everything off again? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 No. Just block the tensioner from falling out (if you don't know what I mean find out first. It's worth about a half days work if you fuck up) Then when secure remove the cam sprocket and move ahead one tooth and check again. The V notch should be under the horizontal line on the cam thrust plate or just slightly to the right . Thrust plate Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 No. Just block the tensioner from falling out (if you don't know what I mean find out first. It's worth about a half days work if you fuck up) Then when secure remove the cam sprocket and move ahead one tooth and check again. The V notch should be under the horizontal line on the cam thrust plate or just slightly to the right . Thrust plate I deff know what you mean about blocking the chain. Okay but what about the links what number on the cam it has to be on? Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Mike, which direction does the cam sprocket need to be turned? If the chain stays in the exact position, the sprocket needs to move one link to the... right? 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Well, it looks like the sprocket has to go to the right. The numbers are guides, but #1 is basically used only on L16/L18 engines with UNSHAVED heads and NEW timing chains. Any head milling or chain stretch, or a new L20B, goes on #2. Number of links depends on engine, too. You don't say if it's an L16, L18, or L20B. And the "bright link" only lines up on initial assembly, so unless the crank sprocket is also verified to be lined up on he dot, the fact that the bright link is lined up with the #1 dot doesn't mean squat. Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Well, it looks like the sprocket has to go to the right. The numbers are guides, but #1 is basically used only on L16/L18 engines with UNSHAVED heads and NEW timing chains. Any head milling or chain stretch, or a new L20B, goes on #2. Number of links depends on engine, too. You don't say if it's an L16, L18, or L20B. And the "bright link" only lines up on initial assembly, so unless the crank sprocket is also verified to be lined up on he dot, the fact that the bright link is lined up with the #1 dot doesn't mean squat. It's a L16 and don't know if they ever shaved the head Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 All that matters is thet you MUST be exactly at TDC. As long as the V us under or very slightly to the right of the horizontal line you have the cam timed. Use any hole or tooth to get this. Mike, which direction does the cam sprocket need to be turned? If the chain stays in the exact position, the sprocket needs to move one link to the... right? . Cam sprocket turner clockwise, yes. Each tooth is 9 cam degrees, 18 crankshaft degrees. The horizontal etch mark on the can thrust plate is 4 degrees wide. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Well, it looks like the sprocket has to go to the right. The numbers are guides, but #1 is basically used only on L16/L18 engines with UNSHAVED heads and NEW timing chains. Any head milling or chain stretch, or a new L20B, goes on #2. Number of links depends on engine, too. You don't say if it's an L16, L18, or L20B. And the "bright link" only lines up on initial assembly, so unless the crank sprocket is also verified to be lined up on he dot, the fact that the bright link is lined up with the #1 dot doesn't mean squat. I put my LZ22 on #1. Is this bad? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 No, its not bad at all, but it's possible it'd run better on #2. Depends where you want your power at. I like my power low, and almost never have the engine over 4500, so an advanced cam is better for me. A "straight up" cam is better for top end. It's not hard to change, so you can always go back. Notch on yours looks good for standard cam settings. Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 No, its not bad at all, but it's possible it'd run better on #2. Depends where you want your power at. I like my power low, and almost never have the engine over 4500, so an advanced cam is better for me. A "straight up" cam is better for top end. It's not hard to change, so you can always go back. Notch on yours looks good for standard cam settings. That was directed at jvb5577, right?... Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 That was directed at jvb5577, right?... Yes. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 This is going to be my DD cruiser so I'll see how it works. Thanks datsunaholic. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 This looks perfect compared to the FSM pictures and descriptions. As the chain stretches and sprockets wear the V will appear to move to the left under the line. I've seen very old motors that show no sign of stretch or wear so it likely isn't much of a problem. Indeed the Z series FSMs do not have a description for the adjustment and the KA even went to a single row chain so they aren't worried about it. Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Is that good? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 I think its good. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Are you sure I'm not trying to take off the front cover once it's on I went through 3 sets of gaskets already smh Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Are you sure? I don't want to have to take the front cover off once it's on. I went through 3 sets of gaskets already. smh **FIXED** Your first picture of the marks is a bit difficult to see.... Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 I'll take a other one give me a few I'm here at autozone buying silicone Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 I gueernetee it will start!!!!!!!!!!!!!and run now make sure the dizzy is lined up to #1 plug wire. oil pump has oil in it? Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 I'll take a other one give me a few I'm here at autozone buying silicone There are so many things I could say about that statement, but I won't! Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Like?? Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 oil pump has oil in it? Good point! Carlos, after you fit your oil pump back on and get the distributor lined up where you want it, don't forget to fill the pump with oil before finally bolting it on. Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Good point! Carlos, after you fit your oil pump back on and get the distributor lined up where you want it, don't forget to fill the pump with oil before finally bolting it on. Nah I haven't got their yet and thanks for the reminder bra! Quote Link to comment
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