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Just put a new timing chain on and I'm wondering if that's where the link has to be?

Datsunrider71

By Datsunrider71
in Engine

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datzenmike Grand Master

datzenmike

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No. Just block the tensioner from falling out (if you don't know what I mean find out first. It's worth about a half days work if you fuck up) Then when secure remove the cam sprocket and move ahead one tooth and check again.

 

The V notch should be under the horizontal line on the cam thrust plate or just slightly to the right .

 

Thrust plate

Lcamthrustplate.jpg

 

motorLcamtiming.jpg

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Datsunrider71 Newbie

Datsunrider71

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No. Just block the tensioner from falling out (if you don't know what I mean find out first. It's worth about a half days work if you fuck up) Then when secure remove the cam sprocket and move ahead one tooth and check again.

 

The V notch should be under the horizontal line on the cam thrust plate or just slightly to the right .

 

Thrust plate

Lcamthrustplate.jpg

 

motorLcamtiming.jpg

 

I deff know what you mean about blocking the chain.

 

 

 

Okay but what about the links what number on the cam it has to be on?

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datsunaholic Newbie

datsunaholic

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Well, it looks like the sprocket has to go to the right.  The numbers are guides, but #1 is basically used only on L16/L18 engines with UNSHAVED heads and NEW timing chains.  Any head milling or chain stretch, or a new L20B, goes on #2.

 

Number of links depends on engine, too.  You don't say if it's an L16, L18, or L20B.  And the "bright link" only lines up on initial assembly, so unless the crank sprocket is also verified to be lined up on he dot, the fact that the bright link is lined up with the #1 dot doesn't mean squat.

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Datsunrider71 Newbie

Datsunrider71

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Well, it looks like the sprocket has to go to the right. The numbers are guides, but #1 is basically used only on L16/L18 engines with UNSHAVED heads and NEW timing chains. Any head milling or chain stretch, or a new L20B, goes on #2.

 

Number of links depends on engine, too. You don't say if it's an L16, L18, or L20B. And the "bright link" only lines up on initial assembly, so unless the crank sprocket is also verified to be lined up on he dot, the fact that the bright link is lined up with the #1 dot doesn't mean squat.

 

It's a L16 and don't know if they ever shaved the head

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datzenmike Grand Master

datzenmike

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All that matters is thet you MUST be exactly at TDC. As long as the V us under or very slightly to the right of the horizontal line you have the cam timed. Use any hole or tooth to get this.

 

Mike, which direction does the cam sprocket need to be turned? If the chain stays in the exact position, the sprocket needs to move one link to the... right?

.

Cam sprocket turner clockwise, yes.

 

Each tooth is 9 cam degrees, 18 crankshaft degrees.

The horizontal etch mark on the can thrust plate is 4 degrees wide.

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jvb5577 Newbie

jvb5577

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Well, it looks like the sprocket has to go to the right.  The numbers are guides, but #1 is basically used only on L16/L18 engines with UNSHAVED heads and NEW timing chains.  Any head milling or chain stretch, or a new L20B, goes on #2.

 

Number of links depends on engine, too.  You don't say if it's an L16, L18, or L20B.  And the "bright link" only lines up on initial assembly, so unless the crank sprocket is also verified to be lined up on he dot, the fact that the bright link is lined up with the #1 dot doesn't mean squat.

 

I put my LZ22 on #1.  Is this bad?

IMG_0774.jpg

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datsunaholic Newbie

datsunaholic

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No, its not bad at all, but it's possible it'd run better on #2.  Depends where you want your power at.  I like my power low, and almost never have the engine over 4500, so an advanced cam is better for me.  A "straight up" cam is better for top end.  It's not hard to change, so you can always go back.  Notch on yours looks good for standard cam settings.

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KlassicMotion Newbie

KlassicMotion

Posted
Posted

No, its not bad at all, but it's possible it'd run better on #2.  Depends where you want your power at.  I like my power low, and almost never have the engine over 4500, so an advanced cam is better for me.  A "straight up" cam is better for top end.  It's not hard to change, so you can always go back.  Notch on yours looks good for standard cam settings.

 

That was directed at jvb5577, right?...

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datzenmike Grand Master

datzenmike

Posted
Posted

IMG_0774.jpg

 

This looks perfect compared to the FSM pictures and descriptions. As the chain stretches and sprockets wear the V will appear to move to the left under the line. I've seen very old motors that show no sign of stretch or wear so it likely isn't much of a problem. Indeed the Z series FSMs do not have a description for the adjustment and the KA even went to a single row chain so they aren't worried about it.

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