Dialing in my weber 32/36

[Sphynx88]

I've always hated carbs, because I am ignorant and suck at getting them to work properly. I loved that the weber was pretty easy to get on and started right up. All EGR was hooked up and I blocked off everything. 

After the carb I replaced the plugs and set the timing. Problems at first were insane dieseling after shut down (had to drop the clutch to kill the motor) and some backfire after I let up after flooring the throttle. 

I followed the steps in this write up: 

http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/TuneWeber.html

I really couldn't tell a difference in idle tuning the fuel mixture for at least 2 full turns and tried to set it in the middle of that.

Now the dieseling has subsided but I need to floor the gas for the motor to kick over and still getting backfire after I floor it. 

I feel like I am getting closer, but if anyone has words of wisdom, please feel free to share. Am using fresh 92 octane.

[Ranman72]

some carbs are more prone to needing a choke  I am not sure if this is your starting issue or not 

get the car started and warmed up 

turn the fuel mixture screw in as far as you can before it dies DO NOT WRENCH IT IN ALL THE WAY TIGHT  

when it starts to die turn it out slowly and try to keep track of the turns  maybe half a turn at a time 

do this till you hear changes again 

then slowly turn it in till you find the center of the two and it should pur nicely 

if the idle is to high or low adjust that also 

lower the idle the better as long as it isn't stalling on take off 

[metalmonkey47]

Backfire from exhaust or intake? Might try backing your timing off a degree or two. 

[HRH]

Backfire is timing and/or big vacuum leak.  What kind of timing light do you have?  Set it at about 12 degrees at 800 rpm.  If it's jumpy, that indicates more problems you need to fix before you try to set the carb.  Valves not adjusted/vacuum leaks, will make it impossible to set the carb correctly.  As for the idle mixture screw, screw it in all the way until it seats (gently) then back out 1 full turn.  Ignore it from that point forward until you get it running well.  A .45 or .50 idle jet on the primary side is all you need for a 20b.  (Side the opens first or closest to valve cover.)

[Sphynx88]

Backfire from exhaust or intake? Might try backing your timing off a degree or two. 

I should mention that the backfire isn't a normal sounding backfire. It most like someone blowing on a flute (lol) or softly hitting a hollow metal object. I'll take a video of it tonight. Coming out of the exhaust. 

 

 

 

 

Backfire is timing and/or big vacuum leak.  What kind of timing light do you have?  Set it at about 12 degrees at 800 rpm.  If it's jumpy, that indicates more problems you need to fix before you try to set the carb.  Valves not adjusted/vacuum leaks, will make it impossible to set the carb correctly.  As for the idle mixture screw, screw it in all the way until it seats (gently) then back out 1 full turn.  Ignore it from that point forward until you get it running well.  A .45 or .50 idle jet on the primary side is all you need for a 20b.  (Side the opens first or closest to valve cover.)

 

 

I have sprayed starting fluid all around and cannot source a vacuum leak. No idle changes around the base or near vac lines but can recheck. I have a timing light where I can set the advance on the back but no RPM reading. Timing stays where I put it. The motor ran well and reliable with the old Hitachi except for the accelerator pump wearing out, doesn't mean valves were any better, will look into it. Do you know off hand what size jet the 32/36 came with?

 

 

Will also check my plugs and see what they tell me. Guy at the shop was trying to convince me that BP6RES-11 plugs were the same as BP6ES. Havent been able to determine if the resistor plugs affect spark any differently.