Car won't stay running

[Starchy]

Hey all,

 

So I picked up "Nascar" a few weeks ago, and after driving it around for a while, I decided to clean out the gas tank. Pulled the tank, cleaned out the rust, and resealed it using POR-15 kit. While down for a week, decided to paint the floor pans and carpet the rest of the car. So...put the car back together, and try to start her up. After a few sputters, the car fires, then dies. Keeps doing that. After a few minutes, I remember before I took the car apart, it was hard starting and I had to hold the key in the "Start" position a little longer to get it to start. I try that this time. Car runs. BUT, the car only runs when I am holding the key just shy of the "Start" position. If I over-turn the key, I get that nasty starter grinding noise, but if I let go and the key goes into the "On" position, the cars dies. 

 

So, I purchased a new starter switch. Installed it tonight, and it has the same problem. I pulled the switch, and using a screwdriver, I try it again. Its the same issue. The car will only run while holding between "On" and "Start". 

 

Any thoughts on possible problems/solutions? 

 

 Thanks in advance, and I will eventually update the Nascar thread here.

 

-Art

[datzenmike]

Your ballast resistor could be broken or wire off. In the START position power goes directly to the coil for full high voltage. It can't run here all the time or the points will burn out, so...In the RUN/ON position, power is directed through the ballast resistor to drop it (to around 8 volts) and then to the coil.

 

You say starter switch but did you mean ignition switch?

It's also possible the ignition switch is not working also. You should have power on the Black/White stripe wire from the ignition switch when in the ON position. You should have power on the Black/Blue stripe wire in the START position.

[banzai510(hainz)]

What datzenmike says

but I would gwiggle the connector in back of the switch. this usually fixes it also.

 

wish you would have ask Ratsun first before buyimn a new switch. But if you put a new switch You would have put pulled the connector off and On and it should work.

so loose connection ar ballast or resisitor is broken

Buy a meter otr test light.

 

510 ignition is simple.

[banzai510(hainz)]

ck the blk/blu wire or blk grn wire.

[Starchy]

Thanks for the responses so far. 

 

So, I did mean ignition switch.  I busted out my volt meter, and started poking around. I get 12.4ish volts at the switch in the ON position, and about 10v when in the START position. I checked the ballast (white rectangular box), and I get 12.35v going in, and 12.25 coming out with the switch still in the ON position. So I am guessing the ballast is bad? Time to pick up a new ballast?

 

I am a newb to wrenching on cars (if you can call this that), and I totally appreciate the help!

 

-Art 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

use the ohm meter part of the meter ans measure the resisitance. ir should look like a short on most cheap meters but the ballast is about 1.6 ohms.

 

 

this is what I do.

pull the starter wire so the motor dont engage

 

now turn the key ON and measure if you have 12 volts at the blk/wht wire going to the ballast resisitor/ then measure the otherside of the resisitor. Tell us what you got. should read a voltage on the Both sides resisitor. to me what you said the resisitor is good.

 

Now find the blk/blu wire.

Now hook meter up and when key in START the blk/blu wire should get 12volts and also the blk/grn wire(as they are C cliped shorted under the tape).

 

the blk/grn jumps to the + side coil as a complettion circut to the coil. Or blk/blu as they are the same. this can be reversed in colors. but still work

 

 

hope not to confuse you

 

I think there is your proplem.

[Starchy]

use the ohm meter part of the meter ans measure the resisitance. ir should look like a short on most cheap meters but the ballast is about 1.6 ohms.

 

 

this is what I do.

pull the starter wire so the motor dont engage

 

now turn the key ON and measure if you have 12 volts at the blk/wht wire going to the ballast resisitor/ then measure the otherside of the resisitor. Tell us what you got. should read a voltage on the Both sides resisitor. to me what you said the resisitor is good.

 

Now find the blk/blu wire.

Now hook meter up and when key in START the blk/blu wire should get 12volts and also the blk/grn wire(as they are C cliped shorted under the tape).

 

the blk/grn jumps to the + side coil as a complettion circut to the coil. Or blk/blu as they are the same. this can be reversed in colors. but still work

 

 

hope not to confuse you

 

I think there is your proplem.

lol, you did confuse me, but I did get the car running. It runs like garbage, but it runs. I was reading the thread about voltage started by Toney, and he had the same issues I had. I took the dist cap off and put it back on, and the car now runs. I haven't adjusted anything else (dont' want to mess anything else up), and will try to figure out why its running so rough. At least its running again.

 

Thanks for the help. Its going to be fun learning about this car, and this site, and members, are an invaluable tool.

 

-Art