Torque Specs

[mantas]

I looked in the repair manual for torque specs for the front castle nuts. It seems they are supposed to be 22-25lbs and backed off 40-70 degrees. Can anyone tell me if this is correct? I don't want a wheel flying off, and any other car i owned required 100+ lbs of torque so i'm a bit puzzled why its only 22-25. Thanks in advance.

[Eagle_Adam]

edited: mis read the post

[mantas]

Anyone???

[datzenmike]

You must be referring to the spindle nut? On the 620 tighten 25-29 ft.lbs. Spin wheel several turns in each direction to seat bearing. Check torque is 25-29 ft.lbs. Back off nut 45 degrees. Install adjusting cap and tighten until any of it's grooves aligns with the hole in the spindle and insert the cotter pin.

 

This adjustment sets the pre load on the wheel bearings. Too tight and the friction will heat them up and burn them out. Too loose and they will pound themselves to death.

[mantas]

Thank you sir. That is exactly what i did and wanted to hear!!

[Dawa]

yep thats how i do it too and thats what my fsm says.

[mantas]

Good stuff. I just got paranoid when i saw 22-25lbs in the fsm since all my cars have been 100+ lbs. drove it around with the disc brakes and it stops good but pedal travel sucks need to do some more bleeding. My bleeder valve might be stripped.

[Dawa]

lol damn 100ft lb thats crazy!

 

i just did disc brakes (z32 calipers) last weekend too.

 

(mistakenly) bled only the fronts, took her for a test drive,

then bled her again:

master cylinder first,

rears 2nd, then fronts last.

(make sure you did it that way)

a lot better.

those bleeder valves only need to be snugged! theyre only

about 9 ft lbs.

 

im still running my stock 3/4 BMC, was going to jump up to 7/8

but its actually not that bad. there is a lil bit of travel and the pedal isnt super

firm, but i dont have to put the pedal to the floor.

[mantas]

Only bled the fronts but i was going to do the rears to be safe. Quite a bit of travel but if you put to the floor it locks like no other. Drives like a champ, might do a proportioning valve instead of a new bmc since mine is new and in good condition.

[Dawa]

i think that if you bleed that mc and then the rears then fronts that you wont even wanna get that valve :)

[mantas]

I guess im gonna have to bleed the mc and the all the lines. Pedal changes constantly, kinda scary but it does stop. Lol.

[mantas]

Bled all the lines and it stops pretty good. Thanks for the help guys. Car is loose on the road though may be my castle nuts are tightened invorrectly?

[Dawa]

what do you mean loose?

does it pull to the side when applying brakes?

my truck actually stopped pulling to one side AFTER i replaced the drums with discs,

but im sure thats because i never adjusted my drums (another reason for wanting

to get rid of them.)

[mantas]

Mine still pulls to the right when stopping but the bleeding helped a lot, it stops quite good. I have a problem with either the tie rod or the idler arm, my right wheel has some play right to left but no play when moving it up and down while on jacks. The truck wonders all over the damn road and its just too damn scary to drive, its quite random. The new idler arm i picked up does not move, it almost feels like its frozen in place, is this normal? Will it work its differenced out once i start driving or does it need to be returned?