AwesomeO Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 I sincerely apologize if this has been covered before, but i really have no where else to go. i'v searched as much as i could before posting this, because i hate people posting questions when it is so easy to find an answer. Well my case is, a 72 510 with an L18 swapped, clean and rebuilt motor with weber carbs. I drove the car with no problems what so ever, decided to install an oil cooler for the summer (texas summers get really hot). drove it home from the shop. next morning hopped in to go to work and all i hear is back firing from the exhaust and even fumes from the intake. after checking everything, i realized that the dizzy was loose! i could turn it left to right fairly easy. after tightening everything up, the engine kept back firing. Things i'v done to troubleshoot: -set it to TDC -Made sure the spindle is at 11:28 with the narrow side facing the radiator. -Rotor facing the radiator aswell. EDIT: car won't start basically followed this thread "http://community.ratsun.net/topic/6072-ignition-timing/" this car is my daily, and i have no clue what should i do :( Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Set the timing? 12deg @1000rpm Quote Link to comment
AwesomeO Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Set the timing? 12deg @1000rpm unfortunately i am not even able to start the car :( Quote Link to comment
LeviGideon Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Check for play in the dizzy. If you pulled the oil pump the dizzy shaft may have gotten flipped 180 out in the process. Maybe try flipping your plug wires 180, see what happens. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 If this still has points... Find TDC and turn the pulley notch back to as close to 12 degrees advance as you can. This is where the points should be opening normally if running. Pull the coil wire off the distributor and place near a ground. Loosen the set screw on the distributor so it can be turned, like if setting the timing . Rotate the distributor back and forth, back and forth. At some point the points will open and you will hear the snap of the spark jumping to ground. Watch the distributor as it turns and where it is when the snap occurs. You should be able to narrow this down within a small fraction of an inch. This should get you very close to the proper 12 degrees BTDC without the engine running. If no spark... check that the points open and close by cranking the motor over. The points should have a gap of 0.022" or a double thickness of a paper matchbook. At TDC check that the rotor is under the #1 plug wire. Also check that the rest are 342 in counter cloockwaise direction. (could someone have swapped your wires overnight?) 1 Quote Link to comment
AwesomeO Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Check for play in the dizzy. If you pulled the oil pump the dizzy shaft may have gotten flipped 180 out in the process. Maybe try flipping your plug wires 180, see what happens. will do. If this still has points... Find TDC and turn the pulley notch back to as close to 12 degrees advance as you can. This is where the points should be opening normally if running. Pull the coil wire off the distributor and place near a ground. Loosen the set screw on the distributor so it can be turned, like if setting the timing . Rotate the distributor back and forth, back and forth. At some point the points will open and you will hear the snap of the spark jumping to ground. Watch the distributor as it turns and where it is when the snap occurs. You should be able to narrow this down within a small fraction of an inch. This should get you very close to the proper 12 degrees BTDC without the engine running. If no spark... check that the points open and close by cranking the motor over. The points should have a gap of 0.022" or a double thickness of a paper matchbook. At TDC check that the rotor is under the #1 plug wire. Also check that the rest are 342 in counter cloockwaise direction. (could someone have swapped your wires overnight?) Will do sir. thank you! and just a picture that i took to confirm what kind of dizzy i have. is it a single points, dual points, EI, a match box? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Looks like points need the full 22100-05??? number. Quote Link to comment
AwesomeO Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Looks like points need the full 22100-05??? number. i apologize. it fully reads: d4k9-020504 22100 05w00 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Yeah I just posted on the realm... 22100 05W00 is '80 720 L20B automatic. Thus (even though not very obvious) it's an electronic ignition or 'pointless' to look for the points. Quote Link to comment
AwesomeO Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Yeah I just posted on the realm... 22100 05W00 is '80 720 L20B automatic. Thus (even though not very obvious) it's an electronic ignition or 'pointless' to look for the points. Thanks mike! tomorrow morning ill try to redo all that again with one variable; the rotor position and the firing order. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I dont know why you just dont open up the distributor cap and we cqan look inside. its a matchbox if a from a 720. do as mike says and get the center coil wire and place near the chassis and see if sparks. If not then ck for power going to the + side coil and to B of the matchbox MatchBox might have gone bad or add another ground from the dizzy mount. simple sometimes I ck the valve lash as a last resort if you have spark Quote Link to comment
AwesomeO Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 GREAT NEWS! it started right up when i took everything apart again, -set it to TDC, noticed that the narrow part of the oil tang is actually facing the firewall -went by the cam lobe positions. -the rotor was facing the firewall aswell. -set the wires according to the rotor position. meaning that #1 went on the metal part and counter clockwise 1-4-3-2. and she started right up!!! now all i have to do is time it with a timing gun! Thanks everyone for the help.! i was descriptive with the steps i did so people can find answers if they ever encounter the same problem Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 thats great but by the intial post you said it was running fine already.WSo that means everything is lined up already So in theory all you needed to do was adjust the distributor. Quote Link to comment
AwesomeO Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 thats great but by the intial post you said it was running fine already.WSo that means everything is lined up already So in theory all you needed to do was adjust the distributor. true, it was running the night before, and the next morning it never started which was really weird! first thing i did, countless times i should say, is adjusting the distributor but with no luck :( Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 just in case run it for awhile maybe you had everything lined up before but the matchbox is acting up. ck the connections. Quote Link to comment
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