ggzilla Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 C22 came with G51 heads. Are they the same as H89? C120 I believe came with notched valve cover as did some other Datsuns whatever needed a low profile air cleaner used them. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 (doing a little dance) I was present when this car was being sold/bought, and when it was in front of my house on a trailer for about an hour. I have history with it! LOL JK. I do know the story of this JDM engine, as i've heard it from the PO. The owner 2 guys back from the current owner swapped it in after supposedly getting it imported himself, although I looked it over myself and the manifolds looked wrong for the engine suggesting a long block swap without any homework being done. Now seeing its an h89 head, the a14 manifold *should* work, but the guy that swapped it couldn't get it to run right. I saw the rats nest of jacked up vacuum hoses and it clued me in on a possibility of why it wouldn't run. At the time i saw the later valve cover and thought it could possibly be a much later engine with round ports or wrong sized ovals. I would think the wrong intake on a carbed engine would cause issues. It will do that even on MPFI engines. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Yea it's been a headache figuring out the rat's nest for sure. I attempted to get it running with the stock carb and gave up. Now the goal is de-smog those manifolds (after I check to see if the intake is a round or oval) and swap on the 32/36. If the intake is round port I may say screw it and go straight to the R1 carbs and a custom manifold. Something is definitely off with the engine though so I'm going to check the timing and hope that's it. The compression checks out at 150ish per cyl dry and wet so it should be sound mechanicly. You are probably right about the long block swap though because the parts all seem to be a match for a stock A14 from a 78 B210 except for the fuel pump which uses the van fuel return system. The stock carb had a wobbly throttle shaft and the rebuild didn't do anything for it. The engine wouldn't idle and bogged on revs. Of course, I think it's vacuum so it's probably timing or fuel or tire pressure. Who knows with A-series voodoo. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 i would disconnect all of the hoses and cap them. even the brake booster. and hook all of them back up one by one until it starts to crap out again. then you've got a start on where your leaks are. Did you go through the carb yet? The accelerator pump jet has been an issue for me with clogging and there are a few air bleeds and little passageways that would need to be clean for it to run right. I had an 82 A15 carb on a 76 A14, which is different size engine, smaller round port intake and heads, among other things being quite different. It would run good enough when it was real clean but it wouldn't tolerate any junk in the bowl. The main jets would clog right up as soon as anything made its way into the bowl. Then the accel pump was next in line. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 The carb was trashed due to sitting in a carb dip too long on the second rebuild. My step dad left it in the bucket for an entire weekend and it oxidized. I figure it would be easier and probably more reliable to just swap to the 32/36. Atleast that way I can tune it. Should be better than the A14 carb on an A15 :P Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Yeah. If you're sticking with carbs, and downdraft, the Weber is about your only good option. That or the Holley equivalent (5200). Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Eventually I want to go with either R1s or dual DCOEs (just gotta talk myself into removing the booster...) but it all depends on the funds. I tried to contact bogg bros for a manifold and their price was more than fair for what they offer. I'm just stuck on wether or not I want to spend $1000 on the carbs and $200 on tuning for DCOEs or $500 for R1s and a manifold and $500 for tuning... For now the most important thing is to make sure the brakes and fuel lines are good. I'm not even worried about having it running till then because if it runs without stopping I'm sure I'll find myself in a really stupid situation... Impatience is a bitch. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 we all know the feeling. i'm going sequential efi and the ms3extra pcm i want is about 650. i've got the rest rounded up other than cam and crank sensors. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I can't bring myself to do EFI on the A series. Honestly with the options I'm looking at it would probably be the cheaper choice, but there is something awesome about the sound of carbed A-series that you can't get from EFI. If I ever get a 1200 this engine will go into it and then there are plans for either a carbed SR or a supercharged KA24e Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 i've heard some pretty nice sounding efi a's Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Dual Weber's sounds awesome! The only thing to match is it quad throttle bodies with no filters. See http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/1386.jpg Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 1. where do i get those awesome sleeves at? and 2. who makes the throttle bodies and how much for 4? wait those wont fit lhd. this is why i'm using a 97 ranger 2.3 upper intake and custom lower. it folds back over the top of itself for longer runners in a small area. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 They will fit LHD. But not with the brake booster in the stock location. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 well i knew that lol. what other option would there be besides manual brakes? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Power brakes is the other option. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 where do you put the booster? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 You can space the booster forward, use a remote booster, or reverse the booster. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 hmm. interesting. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Swap to a wilwood pedal box (since you have an auto) and you get a really clean engine bay with reverse masters. They don't require much force but if you wanted you could add in a remote booster as well. If you just went with the 3 masters (one front, rear, and clutch) with the wilwood kit you would save the most space under the dash and hood. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 yet again interesting. I do want to keep this car as original as i can, since its a solid, clean, low miles car. Of course, other than the EFI and small factory "upgrades" like a later IR alternator and things like that. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Another option is a factory EFI or an Opel unit. the A14 turbo project going on is using an Opel setup that is similar to the stock manifold. Might look closer to a stock upgrade than the 2.3 ford mani. Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 i'm not worried about that part being stock looking. im just talking body and interior stuff i dont want to cut up. the 2.3 upper is perfect for what i want and i've got all the sensors and parts for the intake and i've got an o2 sensor and bung for the exhaust. and i've got a high pressure fuel pump for the rail and a low pressure pump to feed a surge tank if i need to make one. i've got 2 different kinds of injectors to choose from and i have a rail with the regulator on it. I got the whole engine harness as well for all the stock connectors. all for free. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 :blink: Wow, are you going to document the swap? I saw the 2.3 upper after you mentioned it and it looks like it would be amazing for a forced induction setup... I know, totally not the direction you are going, but you could get rid of that pesky heat issue since the charge comes from the cool side. Run an intercooler and route it through. Seems too good to be true :P Quote Link to comment
josh_t Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Of course. I guess i could start by introducing the setup on a new thread with pictures of the parts i have. I'm not new here, why didnt i think of this before. If it works, the could be an extremely easy to find US market donor engine. Every reputable junkyard in the US has at least a couple EFI 2.3 or 2.5 fords to get parts from. And replacement parts are at every parts store and they're cheap. Already sounding better than the Hyundai setup there. The biggest obstacle is the lower intake. I need to ask around for prices or see what i can draw up about getting those runners spaced right. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 At least finding a machine shop shouldn't be an issue around Atlanta :P It is getting difficult to find people that know their way around the A-series though.If you end up needing flanges for your intake, please let me know where you get them made. I grabbed the CAD files from the 1200 wiki but the two local shops won't touch them. Of course they want to charge more because I don't have a file that they deem "secure." Quote Link to comment
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