SlammedhappySteveO Posted June 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 back at it again... Been away for a while... If anyone can tell me how to post pics, i will... Still wont start, and on the off chance it does, it shuts off.... Still an 85 720 with a z2.4 New weber installed, fuel filter, coils, plugs, wirez, rotor, cap dizzy and ignition module.... As well as fuseable links and battery terminals... I have ran a 12 jumper direct to coils , but still will not always start, or stay running... When she runs, she runs smooth clean and no hesitation then jus shuts off.... Ignition relay, fuel pump relay and all fuses have been replaced and terminals clean.. there has to be something im missing... And since i gave 12 volts direct to the coils, by all means it should fire and be happy riiiight? With that said, what am i doin wrong here... Anyone have time in bremerton to learn me on my mistakes here? Please and thank you..... The truck has been like this since i got it , i put about a thousand miles on it before the it started doing this ( reproducing what the po said it was doing), and i havent been able to knock this one outa the park... Smh I may have some parts or whatnot to trade for some help!! :-) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 You need fuel and spark. FUELOn the off chance it's the fuel pump relay, you can jumper the relay to remain on. http://dlarson.hubpages.com/hub/The-Datsun-and-Nissan-Pickup-Fuel-Pump-Relay-What-the-Haynes-Automotive-Repair-Manual-Wont-Tell-You Not saying it's the relay itself but possibly one of the inputs needed to keep it on. SPARKThe coils were jumpered with 12 volts and the ignition module swapped. The only thing left is a badly grounded distributor or possibly the body ground is poor. Quote Link to comment
SlammedhappySteveO Posted June 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 Well fuel pun is running, n that relay is n.i.b., I'll have another conversation with the terminals and see how they look and install an alternate ground and check distributor body and block side..... If not, I've got 2 more n.i.b.. Dizzy's with modules... Thanks Datzenmike Quote Link to comment
SlammedhappySteveO Posted June 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 @ datzenmike , my fuel pump runs tho, cosistantly... So if the relay were bad my pump wouldnt run right? N i can prime the carb with gas and wont kick.. Gotta b a ground.... Gotta b Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 The stock carb has a sight glass so you can tell if it's running out of gas. With a weber we have to assume it's got gas. Pump on all the time is about as close to sure as we can get. When it's quit you can pull a plug wire off and see if there is spark but, even a weak spark can jump 0.035" open air gap. It's much harder inside the head under compression. Quote Link to comment
SlammedhappySteveO Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 Just throwing it out there, but both my new coils say external resistor required... They never came with one or 2 or any..... Should this be a concern? Ive never had any i know of Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 20, 2013 Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 They shouldn't say that. Your 720 coils should have an internal resistance of around 1 Ohm . Quote Link to comment
SlammedhappySteveO Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 Ahhh parts guys.... Guess ill have to look up how to ohm em out, meybe ill pull out some backups ive had in storage... Should that be a reason for concern? I had told them exactly what i needed and what for but since our local store has changed hands ive had a plethora of incorrect parts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 20, 2013 Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 If you are drawing too much current through them they will over heat. I don't know. Some coils need extra resistance added to prevent this. These are usually points coils. EI coils (like what you have or should have) can handle the extra current. Quote Link to comment
SlammedhappySteveO Posted June 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 Question, as usual... I cant seem to find it in any of my books, but on the coil side.... Theres intake coil and exhaust coil.... One with a brown 12 volt and a white ground, and the other has a black and white positive and a red ground with blue circle stripes. Can anyone tell me if this is right, and which would be intake and which would be exhaust coil.... Meybe something got turned around here... I am not leaving the shop today until this thing is running again, or i need parts... Ill probly need parts - murphys law Quote Link to comment
SlammedhappySteveO Posted June 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 So upon further investigation, i was inspecting the ignition switch itself, the harness and connections are great... But there is 2 red wires with blue stripes entering the top of the ignition switch housing, right behind the keyhole.... One of thse wires is broken where it enteres the housing. What do these wires do? could these be the cause of my intermitant no start issues datzenmike? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 22, 2013 Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 I think those are for the buzzer for when you leave your key in the ignition. Question, as usual... I cant seem to find it in any of my books, but on the coil side.... Theres intake coil and exhaust coil.... One with a brown 12 volt and a white ground, and the other has a black and white positive and a red ground with blue circle stripes.Can anyone tell me if this is right, and which would be intake and which would be exhaust coil.... Meybe something got turned around here...I am not leaving the shop today until this thing is running again, or i need parts... Ill probly need parts - murphys law As for the coils it really doesn't matter as they both fire together.The intake side is the coil with the Brown positive and White/Blue negative. The exhaust coil is the one with Black/White positive and Red negative. Just follow the leads to the dizzy cap and swap where they plug in. The wire closest to the outside is the intake the one closer to the middle of the cap is the exhaust. It will run exactly the same no matter how it is wired. Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted June 22, 2013 Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 did you check the anti diesel solenoid? i had a problem with this in the past Quote Link to comment
Telkwa Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 If anyone can tell me how to post pics, i will... Take a look thru my Photobucket thread. It's a bit unwieldy, because I was learning as the thread progressed. Once you've started a Photobucket account, try jumping to Post #44 and read the rest of the thread more carefully. I tried to distill everything so that there was maximum info and the least amount of writing. The Ratsun Forum doesn't let you insert an image file directly into your posts. But you can insert a hyperlink which will retrieve your image from a third-party image hosting website like Photobucket or Flicker or etc. If you set it up correctly, someone who looks at your post will see your pictures even though they aren't really in the post. The pictures are actually stored at the image-host, and only appear in your post because of the hyperlink that retrieves them. Quote Link to comment
SlammedhappySteveO Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Houston, we have liftoff! So i didnt want to, but had some time and ran outa ideas sooo i pulled an extra dizzy off the shelf w/ ignition module and intlstalled that and made and entirely new harness from firewall to dizzy..... Anyone have a clue how hard it was to find 90deg. 16 guage blade terminals.... 7 shops later finally got em... The two tone turd rides again!!! Geesh, sooo much done now... Time to continue... Cleaning up wiring and engine compartment... Time to get er out n get er washed! Appreciate all the help.... Know i aint outa the woods yet, thats the third dizzy thats been put in since i got it, and 2 of em were n.i.b. - gotta search out the cause and test the others n make sure the modules are good... Gotta love Dat-lyfe Quote Link to comment
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