Lowering my 620

[Janksun]

I've read over the how to on re-indexing the torsion bars like 4 times just to make sure I knew what I'm going to be doing. But I have a question or two. I'm going to go with 3 blocks in the rear, maybe 4" later on, but how many notches should I turn the torsion bar to get a level look? I don't want a rake. The how to says 1 but I feel like 1 just isn't enough. Maybe I'll just do it and report my findings. But any input would be appreciated. As yes I know it's been gone over many times and I searched but didn't find the specifics I was looking for, everyone pretty much just said I turned down the torsion bars or I re-indexed them. Oh, is turning down and re-indexing them the same thing? Thanks -John

[Dawa]

i dont think anyone has ever really come up with a number. its always been trial and error.

there are 2 ways to adjust the torsions.

the first way is just tightening or loosening that nut on that long bolt of the anchor arm,

the other is the re-indexing, which is to remove the bar and rotate clockwise/ccw a notch or more

[Janksun]

Are you talking about these dawa?

[Janksun]

Are you able to tell if the lowering blocks have the 2 degree angle on them just by looking at them? I want to buy the cheap blocks from orielly just to get it low for now.

[yello620]

One spline on the indexing is enough to get you really low.

 

A ruler will tell you really fast if the block have a taper to them or not.

[Janksun]

I hate how I always think of a solution right after I post a question and then I go back to edit and someone already answered lol. I just thought of measuring it.

[Dawa]

yes those are what i was talking about.

loosen the top nut (it acts as a locking nut to the bottom/lower nut)
and then turn the bottom nut.

with 2" blocks i dont think youll have to reindex, just adjust those nuts.

also blocks with an angle will be highly apparent

[Janksun]

If I used blocks without an angle and used these shims, would I be ok? They have a 2.5 degree angle on them. Idk if that is too much?

[Dawa]

i dont think you have to run angled blocks or add shims for 2" blocks.

ive been running 3" blocks with no angle or any adjustment to the drivline,

for more than half a year (its my daily, 240+ mile trips on weekends, etc.)

 

i will mention that i had a u joint go bad, but idk how old it was, it wasnt the

kind that allows you to lubricate it, and i think my bad carrier bearing insulator/donut

helped speed up the process.

[Janksun]

I'm just buy the angled blocks. I might go with 4" and c-notch the frame. Bell tech does make a 4" with an angle

[Dawa]

show me the link because i couldnt find belltech 4"s angled or not.

also, consider your scrub rate when going with 3" (or higher) blocks.

brings your springs and u bolts that much closer to the ground

increasing the likelihood of them bottoming out

[Janksun]

The part number is 6203 I found them on eBay last night and I didn't believe it so I googled it and they apparently exist.

I realize that about bottoming out, I'll probably go back to 3" after a while lol

[sick620]

angled blocks are not important untill you get very low. Ive only needed angled blocks after 4inch blocks and mono leafed. They are only used to control pinion angle and make sure your truck dosnt eat through Ujoints.. You do not need agled blocks doing what you are doing.... Also for reindexing... I have only seen the need to reindex after lowering FARTHER than 3inch blocks and mono leafing... So all you should need to do is turn down the front tortion bolts nearly to no thread showing and install your blocks... 

[sick620]

my truck for reference. I installed 3inch blocks and only running one leaf spring and the tiny overload in back, and I did not need to reindex the front just loosened up the tortion bolts that are pictured above in this thread.