Onceler Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 So I brought the 610 to its new home today, so I'm extremely happy about that. Seems to be running okay, once it got up to speed on the highway I was easily doing 65-70mph with no issues, engine sounded great... Once I got back into town however, the L16 started showing a bit of its age I think... Just curious what a first guess on this might be... I don't have any sound bytes or vids unfortunately, because I can only get the engine to do this when the car is actually in motion, but whats happening is in low rpm's, when starting from a dead stop, or if I'm not revving the piss out of every gear before switching, the car is bucking a little almost like someone trying to drive a standard that doesn't know how to drive one (Before the jokes start, I'm owned and driven plenty of sticks)... other than that, while just casually accelerating the car is really bogged down, almost as if its flooding itself, it even had a brief almost backfire from the engine at one point where power was completely lost... It hasn't stalled, and can sit there and idle without any issues.. but as soon as a load is put on the engine it starts with this problem... Just really concerned she's going to stall on me in the middle of an intersection or something as I'm beginning to accelerate. Again, once the rpm's increase to say 3 grand or higher (I dont have a tach and this is my first L-series so I'm not too familiar with how they sound at higher rpm's) it seems to run fine.. sounds healthy, pulls as well as the 65 or whatever HP it has will do... so I'm just trying to run through my head what this could be before I start pulling stuff apart. It has to get inspected for insurance purposes, so if its doing this during the mechanics drive of the old girl, I don't want him to start outlandishly quoting me "could possibly be's". Thanks in advance... Oh.. its a 73 610, 4spd, original L16 with virtually all original parts... 98k miles... clutch isn't the strongest, but it's not in need of replacement yet if I were to guess... Thanks again! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Might be a bad coil ... or just some vacuum leaks, like maybe a cracked hose. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Primary fuel jet is partly blocked. Engine will idle because fuel for the idle circuit comes from a seperate source. Engine will rev with no load but not with a load. Car rums out on the highway because it's running on secondary barrel. Place some rags in front of carb to catch the gas. Losen/remove the three screws that hold the fuel bowl sight glass and lift away from front of carb. Clean these parts carefully and the gasket and they can be re-used. Be very careful that the tiny brass parts do not fall of the front of the float hinge. Lift away thes and the float and set asside. At the bottom of the float chamber may be some sand or diry/debris... remove carefully. On the bottom of the float chamber are two holes angled down and toward the front. The one closest the valve cover is the primary jet. Direct a spray of carb cleaner down into this hole. Get the kind with the plastic straw just like WD-40. This should dislidge or dissolve any obstruction. Replace all parts and snug up the front screws. Start motor and immediately check that the front of carb is not leaking. Fuel level should be at or about the line on the glass. See if this fixes the problem. It might, and is easy enough to try. If it does not, the carb may have to come off and have a more thorough cleaning. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 I would alwasy time it adjust the valvesthe valves replace fuel filter feel if coil is hot. or ballast resisitor was removed and not the type of coil. If what Miks says is tru,if car runs on 2nd barrel better then it should run Ok with the choke on at Lower rpm as it would enrich the 2nd barrel at the lower RPM. I had this happen a long time ago on a weber dgv the main was plugged. I pulled the choke(manual) and was ok to drive home. as for you you will have a electric choke. you could pull the wire and hope trhe choke stays closed( hopefully it not tied to the idle jet seliniod) Quote Link to comment
Onceler Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Thanks for the replies so far... I havent had more than about a half hour to really look into anything, but I pulled it apart with what time I had (essentially just the air cleaner) and snapped these pics to show you guys what I'm looking at. Now I don't have a lot of experience with carbs as every vehicle I've owned since my very first one over a decade ago as been EFI, but I'm only assuming that the burnt look on the primary side (what I'm guessing is the primary based on the info I'm getting anyway) shouldnt be like this?? Checked all the vacuum lines using a wicked guide another member had posted (I apologize for not remembering who you are) and they're in surprisingly good shape... the only other issue I can find is that the distributor cap seems to be a bit loose, nothing major, but it wiggles a bit, and also the wire running from the coil to the distributor needs to be replaced... So thoughts?? Thanks again guys... can't thank you enough already. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 take more photos of the coil area also. black on the one main side is usually normal Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Check out the choke. In your photos it is on 1/2-way. It should close 100% when engine is cold and throttle depressed. The do what Mike suggested. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Is the motor warmed up in this picture? The choke plate should be fully open when the motor is hot. Quote Link to comment
Onceler Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Just reading mikes process again before I head out to the garage, but no, the engine was dead cold... hasnt started since I put it in the garage last night, going on 20 hrs shut off now.. Seeing as I've never worked on a carb, I didnt have any carb cleaner and had to go pick some up, haha... Such a noob... Quote Link to comment
Onceler Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 So hopefully this works... I am uploading a couple of videos, although the lighting it terrible, its mainly just so that everyone can hear my engine, as it might help to figure out whats wrong. Also, more pictures as Hainz requested pics of the coil area. Turns out there is an L18 in my car... according to the badging anyway, so those pics have been posted too... maybe I'm reading it wrong? But in two different spots on the frame it mentions the car having an L18, so go figure... didnt realize it was an option in 73 610's... So I did what Mike had suggested... took the front plate off the carb, cleaned the piss out of it as it was actually quite dirty... almost looked like really fine wet sand... but it wasnt near the two holes I sprayed out with carb cleaner. Odd thing is, it's actually idling smoother now, and it started perfect after sitting for almost 24 hours... so I'm not goign to say it was a complete waste of time as it introduced me to carb maintenence for the first time, and it was actually pretty fun to do... however as I took it around for a spin, the same problem persisted... low rpm bucks and sputters with complete momentary loss of power as I'm trying to accelerate... :( The first pic is the top of the carb after the car was run for awhile... so the choke is wide open... it seems that even when its cold, its stuck half open... I have no clue how to adjust that. Or if its an issue? Anyway... help! Thanks in advance, advice has been fantastic so far. *edit* trying to figure out how to get the vids linked... Quote Link to comment
Onceler Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 http://s1298.beta.photobucket.com/user/Onceler11/media/VID-20130109-00004_zpscf92a2e2.mp4.html http://s1298.beta.photobucket.com/user/Onceler11/media/VID-20130109-00003_zpsc9fda230.mp4.html Just used direct links to photobucket for the vids... hopefully that works... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Yes, all 1973 610s came with L18 engine. > after the car was run for awhile... so the choke is wide open Good > when its cold, its stuck half open... I have no clue how to adjust that It will only affect the running when the engine is cold. Adjust it like the repair manual says, or leave it alone if the carb runs good when cold. Quote Link to comment
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