cubetop Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Well, next problem with my poor basket case 83 seems to be the transmission. Lost the clutch master cylinder and the damper went bad so replaced the master, slave and removed/bypassed the damper. Few days go by and there is a squealing noise...NOT a belt....coming directly from the transmission. It stops after about 30 seconds and I can smell burnt rubber and the smell went away a little while later. Now there is a "death rattle" coming from the transmission. Not always.....but usually after it warms up. *sigh* What I'm trying to gauge would be if it were easier to grab a different transmission like out of a hardbody or rebuild what I have. Everything will be done by a shop so that has to be taken into consideration. I'm going to try to have the transmission checked out before I completely write it off but was just wondering if maybe it made more sense to get a different one due to parts/reliability/etc. All help and guidance is welcomed. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Just get one from a 720. The vast majority of used transmissions are fine. Quote Link to comment
cubetop Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Just get one from a 720. The vast majority of used transmissions are fine. We don't have any 720s in Atlanta that I have found. Well, there was a stripped 85 that I took some interior out of but the drivetrain is comepletely gone. Was asking because there are plenty of Hardbody/frontier. There is even a "5W71C" with 50K for sale on Craigslist for $175. Quote Link to comment
cubetop Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Well I feel dumb. Not the transmission. Don't laugh. It's the alternator. It's locking up occasionally and freaking out.*sigh* Ok, you can laugh at me now. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Yikes. Rare problem, but i've seen it happen once before. Quote Link to comment
cubetop Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 I think the tranny is low on gear oil. I think I may sell this guy and look for a 4x4. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I had an alternator lock up solid once, had to cut the fan belt to get it out of the road, as I could not get it loose. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Loosen the belt and you should be able to move it. The fill plug is half way up the driver's side. Oil should be level with the opening and you should be able to 'dip' your finger in it. If it is low, think about draining it and replacing it. It's supposed to be done every 30K anyway and is likely over due. If low, it's probably leaking out the rear seal, a $5 part. #32136-U0100. The drain is on the bottom and has a magnet on it. As long as there are no metal parts on it assume the tranny is good. A black paste is normal. You need 2 liters of GL-4 80w90 weight gear oil to fill it. You can use synthetic but it is so slippery that it will get past old seals so I recommend regular oil in an old tranny. Whatever oil you use it must at least say 'Yellow Metal Safe' to protect your bronze synchro rings. Quote Link to comment
cubetop Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Thanks datzenmike for your knowledge once again. At least now I know why the truck was hard to start occasionally...the bearings are shot in the alternator and it was locking up. It's weird as I SWEAR the noise was coming from the transmission. I guess it seemed most logical since I just replaced the master cylinder. Still working on getting the slave replaced and the damper bypassed. The hard lines are frozen/corroded in place. I've tried a torch / hammer, vice grips, you name it. I can't get em to budge. Got the alternator ordered and should be here next week. Hope I ordered the right one. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Yes, hopefully you ordered an alternator for a 1983 720. Because earlier alternators will burn out your battery. > The hard lines are frozen/corroded in place Well that is a problem. It is quite unusual for the vice-grips to not work. A hint that possibly more than just the lines are corroded. Quote Link to comment
cubetop Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Yes, hopefully you ordered an alternator for a 1983 720. Because earlier alternators will burn out your battery. > The hard lines are frozen/corroded in place Well that is a problem. It is quite unusual for the vice-grips to not work. A hint that possibly more than just the lines are corroded. It's definitely for a 83 but there were two choices, a 50Amp and a 60Amp. The 60Amp was a tiny bit larger if I remember correctly. They both list as a direct fit so I ordered the 60A. Believe me, I'm as surprised as anyone on the hard lines. I soaked them in PB Blaster, hit them with a torch, smacked em with a hammer, used vice grips, etc. They won't budge. When I replaced th master cylinder, I COMPLETELY rounded the hard line there. This poor truck has had a hard life methinks. I'm thankful for the knowledge here. I've learned a TON! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 50A and 60A are the exact same size. So either one will fit. And yes, they interchange. Quote Link to comment
cubetop Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 50A and 60A are the exact same size. So either one will fit. And yes, they interchange. Excellent! I should be good to go then. Quote Link to comment
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