atkinson40 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 You could always swap the #3 plug and wire to a different cylinder. See if problem moves too. Did you do a compression check? Swapped wires and plug. Problem stays with #3, No compression check yet. Thanks Kevin Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Puled the plugs and valve cover. Propped open the throttle and as I turned the engine over opening the intake valves one by one. I stuck the shop vac hose on the blow port and blew down the carb throat. Air comes out each and every plug hole. Guess no obstruction in the input legs. Checked valve lash = Good. Started reviewing the plug requirements and found they should be NGK BP6ES. Gap should be .032" Mine are Champion RN11YC4. :no: I think Autozone steered me this way some time ago. :blush: When I changed over to EI, I left the original points coil and resistor. I think this means .032" gap? Rain day at the JY tomorrow. Is there any suggestions what coil I can snag besides the resistor combo type. Any other car work as a donor? Will get the right plugs and install first. Thanks kevin Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 RN12YC is what I use. No problems. yes, use .030 to 0.034 gap. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Any coil from a '78 and up Datsun will be an EI coil. Wire it without the ballast and you will have more voltage output available. NOW you can widen the plug gap if you want. Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Any coil from a '78 and up Datsun will be an EI coil. Wire it without the ballast and you will have more voltage output available. NOW you can widen the plug gap if you want. Thanks DM. I went to the JY yesterday and snagged a coil. The datsuns I found as donors all had 2 coils?? I hope using one of them is OK. I swapped out the coil and shorted out the resistor. I also found some new plugs. NGK BPR5EGP. They have the little tiny center point. I thought that meant more reliable?? I couldn't find any specs on them online. I swapped them out with the Autoilites I have as a test. No difference in #3 lack of power so I put back in the Autolites. I think GGzilla was saying these are OK?? OK. Now I'm going to expose my junk to the wind. :blush: At the JY I was also looking for a new cap and rotor. Here's my old ones. Whats wrong with the picture? At the JY I took my old ones for comparison. I was finding all the rotors were bigger than mine. :blush: My brain slowly begginning to turn....When My kids brought me the EI dizzy from their 510 buddies.... Did it have the right rotor?? When I switched to EI, did I switch out the rotor also?? Or stay with the old smaller points rotor? :blush: A wise, sage ratsun dude once told me to "fix the problem, not the blame" So on I went and found a new rotor/dizzy cap. When I installed it I can now tell a tiny bit of difference when I pull the #3 plug wire when it's idleing. Still not the same as the pulling the other plug wires, but something... a tiny bit more than just my imagination. Compression test next. I also have noticed the passenger side drum leaking and the reservior going down so popped the drum and found: 1. Bad cylinder. 2. broken spring. Cylinder I can get at Autozone. I seached 2 JY's yesterday, pooring rain, mud up to my knees, couldn't find the spring. Don't know where I'm going to find the spring. Dealer?? doubtful?? Autozone?? More doubtful? Thanks kevin Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Rockauto Thanks ggzilla Went to O'reiley's and picked up the wheel cylinder. While there as an after thought I asked about the spring. Hot jimminy damm. They had a hardware kit that consisted of all the springs for all four wheels for $4.99. Came home. Installed cylinder, springs and drums. Adjusted brakes. Had daughter to pump brakes as I bled them. Found a big funnel and filled the tranny. Took her off the tree stumps and I'm ready to roll. Ready to try out my new seats. B) Got her on the freeway. She seems to pull fine. Didn't baby her. DM sys no. Came home popped the hood. Only obvious booboo is oil leaking from the sending unit. Tommorow. I got to thinking...why when I pull the plug wire on #3 idleing it has very little affect, but seems to run OK wide open. 2 different circuits supplying the gas. Opened the idle mixture screw and the idle smoothes out. Now when I pull #3 when it idles, it makes a difference. Not just my imagination. But the screw is Way TF out. I remeber in the cobwebs of my brain remembering gross is all the way in and the 1&1/4 turn out. Better...I believe I remember a vacumm gauge on a vacumm port and adjusting for max intake manifold vacumm. I ain't seen no webers at the JY yet....When I do.. :devil: Going to think a bit more about the Hitachi idle. Compression test. Thanks kevin PS: Seats are sweet...I won't miss the $%^&* bench, my butt sank down in a hole...felt like a toilet. :poop: Quote Link to comment
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