jefe de jefes Posted June 7, 2008 Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 Ok , I just rebuilt a weber 32/36 for my bros 521. It has the electric choke like the carbs in the pictures above. My question is how do I properly set up the choke? The choke is stuck in the open position . I grounded the carb on the neg side of battery and put 12v to the tab on the round plastic choke thingamajiger. Nothing happened . Is the choke supposed to be opened or closed when 12v are present?:confused: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2008 Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 The choke should be closed when cold, if properly adjusted. Inside the plastic housing is a tiny heater and a bi-metallic coil of wire. As the heater slowly warms up the coil expands and un-winds, pulling the choke into the open position. This takes several minutes. First is the linkage free to move? and does the choke butterfly push open with light finger pressure, nothing sticky or jammed? Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted June 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 The choke should be closed when cold, if properly adjusted. Inside the plastic housing is a tiny heater and a bi-metallic coil of wire. As the heater slowly warms up the coil expands and un-winds, pulling the choke into the open position. This takes several minutes. First is the linkage free to move? and does the choke butterfly push open with light finger pressure, nothing sticky or jammed? Yes , the linkage moves freely. The choke butterfly can be moved with slight pressure. Doesn't feel like its jammed or binding. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2008 Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 Loosen the three set screws on the choke and turn the plastic housing. This will wind the choke coil and close the butterfly. This will be the cold start position. When hooked up and running the choke will heat up and the coil will unwind, opening the butterfly. When cooled it will coil up and close the butterfly, ready for the next start. If the butterflys don't close, remove the screws and see if the plastic cover and see if the linkage is unhooked. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 7, 2008 Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 It will take 5-10 minutes for the choke to open after the electricity is applied. Adjustment: When the engine and choke are cold, rotate the housing so that the choke just closes all the way. Then warm it up and verify the choke opens all the way straight up/down. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted June 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 Alright! Will try. Now I need to find a 12v source. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2008 Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 The 620 will have several wires behind the carb. The one for the stock choke heater is color coded: '73-'74 Blue with a smaller White stripe. (do not mistake the white with blue stripe for the fuel cut solenoid) '75-79 solid Blue wire. Best to use the stock choke heater wire as it is designed to turn off if the motor stalls during warm up. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted June 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 The 620 will have several wires behind the carb. The one for the stock choke heater is color coded: '73-'74 Blue with a smaller White stripe. (do not mistake the white with blue stripe for the fuel cut solenoid) '75-79 solid Blue wire. Best to use the stock choke heater wire as it is designed to turn off if the motor stalls during warm up. Does that go for the 521 as well? Thats what i'm installing it on. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2008 Report Share Posted June 7, 2008 Ha ha. Just been looking through your old posts trying to figure out what vehicle your using. The top picture is a 620 but the other with the douche bag reminded me of my old 521.... anyway I guess it's 521. No I think they were manual. Easiest thing, is find a power source that turns on and off with the motor. The fuse box is right there on the pass side. Sorry, not much help. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Just connect it to the + side of the ballast resistor. That's right under the hood. The newer trucks wire it to the N terminal of the alternator, through a relay. That's why it has no voltage if the engine stops. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted June 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Just connect it to the + side of the ballast resistor. That's right under the hood. The newer trucks wire it to the N terminal of the alternator, through a relay. That's why it has no voltage if the engine stops. How about the + side of the coil? The reason why I say this is because I switched to the matchbox dizzy and I removed the ballast . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 That would work as long as it doesn't overload the ignition fuse and flow it. Carry a spare until you are sure it's fine. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted June 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Sounds good . Will try tomorrow morning. Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment
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