I'm new and I have a lame question!

[Aerodynamic]

Hey guys really appreciate the input on the ignition options! My coil looks like it's seen better days.

 

I snapped a quick picture of the engine yesterday:

 

 

I also have a picture of how the throttle sits in relation to the carburetor stop plate. The screws are't adjusted partially because the car has never idled properly haha.

 

Are they supposed to sit this far away from the carb body? Or am I just majorly off in terms of adjustment? I honestly don't know how they're supposed to go :hmm:

 

[I'm BLUE]

Standard DCOE Settings:

 

Speed screw ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with lever maximum.

 

 

^^^ from my previous long post ;) ( Small adjustment's win the race )

re-read the tech portion of it 5x over then rinse/repeat (that's what I do) ... while looking/touching/making-love to your 260z ..................................... :lol: ...jk

 

nope .. they are not suppose to be that far away from the carb body.

They are too far backed-out and not making contact at all on the lever..

Looks like the previous owner/student's couldn't figure out how to idle it back down , so these got dialed back out ...

 

But HEY !!! .. this is the nature of learning DCOE's as we all have/had to at some point :D.

 

good on you ... for actually taking pics !!

[72240z]

ya someone prob backed them out trying to take the idle down when the problem was something else lol. You should see how low the idle gets with none touching and if its under like a g try getting a decent sync done while your there. Do this after the cars warm and its timed. You should do the rest as suggested but setting the timing, idle, and syncing will make the greatest difference to the cars drive-ability with the issue your having.

 

Go to the auto parts store and see if they have a "help" parts package with throttle springs, or go to home depot like I suggested earlier. If you dont mind having the springs to the valve cover then try and run dual one to each of the taped holes, it puts a nice even tension across the bar though I think its unattractive lol. I just moved my cam and spring set up for my throttle cable to the center today from the end because of binding and twist problems. Until you have the proper force keeping the butterflies closed your not going to be able to get the keep idle down and tune.

[Busta Nut]

Do you have one of these??

 

 

[Busta Nut]

I had some issues a while back. Here's the thread. Don't know if it'll help.

 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/41183-triple-side-draft-tech-question/

[Z Speed]

Your carbs are toast; you need to sell them to me asap. Don't even try and fix them. I'll be a stand up guy and take them off your hands.... ;)

 

P.S. Seriously, nice Z....

[Aerodynamic]

Do you have one of these??

 

 

 

I do not have a carburetor synchronizer but that would probably be a good investment. Also thanks for the thread link! I'll be looking at that later tonight.

 

I am also going to buy a new throttle linkage clip as I have discovered mine is mysteriously bent way out of shape. Hopefully I will have more time to work this weekend because as of right now school and work are killing of all of my free time... :geek:

[521]

Just took possession of a '74 260Z.

Dual Weber Reline's this post has helped a great deal!

Off to try some tuning... :crying:

[San Maru]

Triple weber DCOE are more for a dedicated track car, probably the previous owners intention. Now you want to drive it on the street as like a dual purpose car. There is a better choice of triple carb for dual purpose car such as Mikuni due to a larger accelerator pump and their able to tune lean on idles and mains unlike the Weber. The Weber pump just masks transient leans that won't be agreeable to the Weber, so you go fat to get the same transient response of the Mikuni. That's where your fuel economy tanks. You are running fatter all the time so the transients aren't as annoying. You would be running leaner with a better suited mikuni carb that doesn't have the transient problems to running main jet because of the larger accelerator pump with the tailored shot available from that pump. As for power the mixture will remain the same. If you try to jet the Weber's for the similar mileage, then your HP tanks, and the mikunis take the winnings because they keep their edge without compromising the afr on the mains. So basicly if you aren't trailering it to the track, you are being bled dry in your wallet for gas money. If it's going to be driven to the track and back, around town, you have the worst choice as far as fuel consumption goes. There are a lot of people wanting to build dedicated track cars, and if you want to save money, sell the Weber's and get mikunis. If you got money to burn, who cares! Run fat all the time. Nice car dude. Build smart, don't follow the flock.

[72240z]

Interesting insight there, its true and I didnt learn it until I had to live with and tune webers lol. I dont care much about the MPG but I most def had to up the idle jets to negate leaning out in various conditions. Right now I run 55 idle jets which are pretty big but the car feels great. As you say though the mpg goes to complete shit. I'm running 4.11 in the rear too lol, you can almost watch the needle go down...

[San Maru]

Jay, that is the trade off. The major point for the Webers is parts availability. Im not far away from installing 3 Dellorto DHLA 40s on my car. Parts for Mikuni are harder to find, but they are out there. Dellorto has good parts support but nothing like Weber. As a timeline goes, you have Mikuni/Solex, then Weber, then Dellorto. The Dellorto is similar to the Mikuni in that it has a large accelerator pump. Jets can be taken out of the top after removing a cover. Jet selection is more refined than Weber. Weber goes from 140 to 145, Dellorto will be like 140, 142, 146 etc. Where Weber and Mikuni jet selection is straight forward Dellorto lacks a logical numbering system for idle jets and emulsion tubes. Some high numbers are rich, others lean. Its made worse by different authorities that disagree with the sequence. I will just have to muddle through it. Anyway, I have the carbs, DHLA 40s with 30mm chokes on the manifold with linkage. Its for a mild motor that I want the low end torque for fun driving with smooth off idle transitions. I still have to get the 2.5 exhaust built, some Tee fittings for the fuel lines, and decide what to do about timing control. Dave Rebello told me how to modify the 280zx type distributor to get me 32-34 at 5,000 RPM I am after and have 15 at idle. It involves a little trial and error, testing with a timing light, but not that expensive at all. I have a couple ZX distributor spares. Once its wired up and running I can ditch the hard-to-come-by and expensive E12-80 ignition module in favor of a pertronix/HEI unit that is just as good or better yet cheaper and at all the local part stores. Ive given up on the KR180 cv axles and am searching for someone willing to remove the side gear buttons in the early r180 to use my bolt in axles. I didnt mean to sound like I was coming down hard on the Webers. There is no telling how much money and time people put in jets and tuning on a street car trying to overcome a small accelerator pump design. It must seem like an unending battle at times for some.

[cdub42]

learning

 

lurking

[Aerodynamic]

Good points there San Maru

 

Currently I do about 16-18 mpg driving around on streets, but I waste massive amounts of gas at idle because my throttle plates won't close all the way.

I would definitely consider switching to Mikunis if the opportunity came up, yet I feel that I can get my current Webers running fairly well in the next few weeks.

 

If I can get to 20 mpg average I will be happy :cool: