wat Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 Trying to get my 510 road worthy. I bought it a year ago, all the lights worked fine. Drove to Vancouver without hiccups. Parked it for a year while real life took hold. I'm now currently in the process of getting it on the road and I'm running into an electrical issue All the lights work except the brake lights. They used to work, along with everything else. And now the common column fuse keeps blowing (within seconds) and I can't figure out what is causing it. I've checked my grounds. I took apart the dash He did some crappy solder work with the ignition switch. He spliced 20g wire with everything to the ign switch. Other than Ying off the BW for a stereo, which has been capped off. I don't see anything to wrong with it. In the engine bay, The B wire from the regulator to the headlight relay is melted along with WB to to the alt. Any clue on where to start sorting this? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 start with the Fusible Link which is supposed to prevent melted wires. Theh smaller wire connected to the Starter large terminal should connect within a few inches to the Fusible Link. A previous owner may have removed it. If the FL is in place, the melting can happen due to bad connections. Run a new B wire to replace the melted one. Same for the WB melted wire. Even if they seem to work now I'd put new wire with new connector ends on it and also clean the connections it fits too (e.g. sand the nut and terminal on the atlernator -- get it to bright metal). Blowing the fuse repeatedly could be a crimped wiring making intermittent connection. Look for rubbing or pinched wires under the hood, especially rubbing on the steering column or running close to exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe. Quote Link to comment
wat Posted August 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 start with the Fusible Link which is supposed to prevent melted wires. Theh smaller wire connected to the Starter large terminal should connect within a few inches to the Fusible Link. A previous owner may have removed it. If the FL is in place, the melting can happen due to bad connections. Run a new B wire to replace the melted one. Same for the WB melted wire. Even if they seem to work now I'd put new wire with new connector ends on it and also clean the connections it fits too (e.g. sand the nut and terminal on the atlernator -- get it to bright metal). Blowing the fuse repeatedly could be a crimped wiring making intermittent connection. Look for rubbing or pinched wires under the hood, especially rubbing on the steering column or running close to exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe. Is there anyway this can lead to the brake lights not working? I should also add that I left the battery connected the whole time it was sitting but the battery terminals are not that corroded. Also, I don't have the diagram right in front of me but the W and WR wire that lead to the starter are not fused. The diagram doesn't tell me what amp fuse to run in there, do you know off hand? Quote Link to comment
b3y0ndd34th Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 Headlights, tailights, ignition, all of it runs through the FL. if something is breaking down here it's a good chance it could cause other problems too. When I got my 610 it didn't have a voltage regulator, a previous owner had removed it. When I finally figured out there wasn't one there I noticed some issuses with my FL being burned up to the main connection of the battery, I replaced those and the alternator and It's been great since. I have other problems now, but this solved my issues with Turn signals, dash lights, headlights, and tail lights. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 the W and WR wire that lead to the starter are not fusedThat is correct. They never are, instead they should have a Fusible Link (not a fuse). You can buy one from your friendly local Nissan dealer. the battery terminals are not that corrodedThe outside look is not very important. The metal to metal contact with the battery post is, it should be cleaned every 12 months to shiny metal and treated with battery spray (or oil or grease) to inhibit oxidation. Quote Link to comment
wat Posted August 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 So I figured out why my brake lights are not working. I didn't have a fuse in the horn slot. I read on another thread they they are connected. I noticed my light L is hot to the touch and my fuse is warped but not burnt from the heat. I never noticed this before. Quote Link to comment
wat Posted August 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 Also noticed my low beams only work if if I have it switched to Hugh. Relay issue? I gave the relay a little tap and didn't do anything Quote Link to comment
wat Posted August 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 Also noticed my low beams only work if if I have it switched to Hugh. Relay issue? I gave the relay a little tap and didn't do anything Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 You have to open up the relay and clean the contacks. Or swap out the relay.most likely its there. Yes the horn fuse works the brake lites Quote Link to comment
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