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My First Build 1973 240z


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Recently my father game me a 1973 240z to build. this will be the first build on a Z for me. so i need a much information and resources as possible. if you know where any restoration, performance or miscellaneous parts are sold please let me know.any information will help me very much. Im up for suggestions on the build again any info will help.im thinking about painting it a burnt orange color, any suggestions on rim type/color? also would there be anywhere that sells nut/bolts/washer kits for specific locations on the car? im debating whether i should keep the stock inline-6 and rebuild it. or to put a turbo inline-6 from an older 280z. my father also talked with me about putting a skyline engine on the Z, any opinions on the skyline engine? there is a place not too far from me that sells import engines called "JIS" its in arlington, TX. im pretty sure they would have one. any suggestions on the engine? i also pulled my fuel tank yesterday and it had rust in it, its been sitting for 14 years, how could it not? would i be better buying a fuel tank used thats not rusted? or is there a place where they sell them new? what about a fuel cell? do they sell those? or would i have to custom make my own?

 

Thanks,

Alex

These pictures were taken 2 years ago, when my father first gave me the car.

 

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i would say that before you concentrate on engine upgrades, you should get your old ass car up to date. replace the old, worn out parts ie hoses/suspension etc. also, you should plan a brake upgrade before a motor upgrade.

 

i JUST dropped the tank of my 73 620 which was also rusted. you can derust the tank. you could use all kinds of acids but i recommend investing in "evaporust" its very effective and its also 'green' so you can pour it down the drain when it loses its effectiveness. as well as cleaning the tank, you should replace the rubber fuel hoses and disconnect the hard fuel lines for clearness. one of my hard lines was clogged from a bunch of rust in the tank.

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it is a fairly common product. i bought it at home depot. i bet lowes and walmart have it as well. a gallon is around 20$, but its not a 'one time use' type of product. you can reuse it until it loses its efficiency. you would pour the gallon in your tank and then rotate the tank every hour so that it gets distributed to all the rusty areas.

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specific questions we are happy to help you with,

but at the same time no one is going to spoon feed you everything.

most of it has been covered in great detail and is easily found on the net.

 

theres more than one way to go about things and your choices will be affected by

the time you have, skill you have, work space, available resources, budget, ect.

 

 

if your a 16 year old kid mucking around in your mums garage with your dads tools and putting $50 a week into it your never going to be able to do an RB (skyline) swap.

 

the L28et is a budget builder thats alot of fun to drive.

 

but start hitting the books,

theres a lot of reading and research to be done before you do any of that

 

my personal suggestion is rebuild the L24 or an L28 (bolts in the same)

and learn how to build, diagnose, and repair the engine you have.

 

the stock L24/L28 with a 5 speed, round top SU's, and some exhaust are plenty fun to drive.

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specific questions we are happy to help you with,

but at the same time no one is going to spoon feed you everything.

most of it has been covered in great detail and is easily found on the net.

 

theres more than one way to go about things and your choices will be affected by

the time you have, skill you have, work space, available resources, budget, ect.

 

 

if your a 16 year old kid mucking around in your mums garage with your dads tools and putting $50 a week into it your never going to be able to do an RB (skyline) swap.

 

the L28et is a budget builder thats alot of fun to drive.

 

but start hitting the books,

theres a lot of reading and research to be done before you do any of that

 

my personal suggestion is rebuild the L24 or an L28 (bolts in the same)

and learn how to build, diagnose, and repair the engine you have.

 

the stock L24/L28 with a 5 speed, round top SU's, and some exhaust are plenty fun to drive.

 

Good advice, I would just add the l28et is a good budget build but still has its costs all said and done. Would take a long long time to get it done one 50 a week and dads tools.

 

I was surprised how fun the z was to drive stock (l24/4speed). There is a reason it was and is so popular lol.

 

Read read read read read and dont get caught in the trap most kids do thinking they know shit. Stay humble and absorb as much as you can.

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i wasnt exactly planning on doing an RB swap my father just brought the idea up of doing it on the Z. and what does the L28et come off of originally? and oh i know im not like that and yes ive been researching. im not planning on turning this machine into a ricer, id like to keep it as original as possible with just a few modifications.

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and what does the L28et come off of originally?

 

you have a lot of reading ahead of you......

 

stick with your stock motor for now, use it to learn the ins and outs.

 

worry about replacing the worn out parts and making things function in stock form.

 

 

 

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just got back from both lowes and homedepot, neither of them carry evaporust but homedepot did have a pint of loctite naval jelly rust remover but that would be too hard to clean out a gas tank with so i decided not to buy it. i called the lowes from the town over and they have twenty two bottles in stock, so i plan on getting some tommarow morning.

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ah that sucks. but it is definitely worth the drive because the product works really well! yeah i had considered the naval jelly too but im glad i didnt go that route.

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its only about a 25-30 min drive but it is worth the drive. someone told me to put some nuts, bolts and washers inside the tank with about 2 gallons of diesel and to swish it around for 30 mins. but i didnt think that sounded very legit... so i guess the evaporust is my only alternative. i just gathered up all the fuel lines i needed, also gathered my spark plugs cable and spark plugs. if everything goes as planned i should have all of that tommarow... going to try to get it started after replacing all of that. if not should i pull the carbs and clean them? or what route should i take?

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the nuts/bolts/rocks in the tank and shake are if you have big flaky rust in the tank. i did go that route but i didnt have to. so its up to you. and go ahead and clean the carbs, couldnt hurt

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