Dual Side Draft Carb set up....

[Fuelrags]

Hey Guys, I just bought my 73' 620. I am looking for info on a Dual Side Draft Carb conversion and Header. Anybody have any resourses on this topic to share???

[zerow]

Hey Guys, I just bought my 73' 620. I am looking for info on a Dual Side Draft Carb conversion and Header. Anybody have any resourses on this topic to share???

 

I've posted a little bit about the topic:

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=4035

 

Hope this helps.

 

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[]2eDeYe]

I'd stick with the cast exhaust manifold that should be on that truck. Flows real well and looks good to boot.

 

As far as side drafts go, it depends on what you want from your motor? Economy or power?

[THECHRISTIAN]

A neighbor of mine who owns a 72 510 has a set of SU carbs for $100 bucks. Where can I source a rebuild kit for them? If they dont come with a manifold is it still a good deal, and if they dont, any one got one for sale? They will be going on a L18 with a header. Thanks for everyones help.

[datsunfish]

The value would depend on condition.If all there and nice and tight $100 is about right.A mani might run you at least another $100.Kits may be hard to get but who knows how those things work anyways.

I think those are supposed to be the best torque for sides.Stock 73 exhaust flows as good as a header but headers are easy to work around and set up pipes for.

[zerow]

A neighbor of mine who owns a 72 510 has a set of SU carbs for $100 bucks. Where can I source a rebuild kit for them? If they dont come with a manifold is it still a good deal, and if they dont, any one got one for sale? They will be going on a L18 with a header. Thanks for everyones help.

 

Is the setup complete? Are they flat top (kind of resemble tuna cans on top)? The manifold is usually the hardest part to find, next to the water bypass pipe and linkage kit. If everything is there, then I say you've got a good deal. A good way to tell if the carbs are any good is to push up on the pistons at the same time, until they stop. If they both drop consistantly and end with a metallic 'clunk' sound, then you're doing even better. I got my setup for $150, 12 years ago. The fuel needles were grooved, the inlets were corroded, the brass floats took on fuel...really a setup for the junkyard. But these carbs are the easiest to rebuild with parts from the dealer, and I'm at 90 percent done with my rebuild. There is really no "kit" anymore, there are just a lot of places to get parts, and, as I have learned, asking around really helps.

[racerx]

Have you checked the compression dry and wet to see if its worth putting side drafts, they can get pricey. The SUs that someone mentioned earlier sounds like a good deal for $100.