twotoedbandit Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Okay guys, my engine problems just keep on coming. Here is the latest edition. About a week ago my wife fills up her b210 at the same gas station we always use. On her way home from work that day the car randomly dies at a stop light. starts right back up and drives fine the rest of the way home. The next day, dies again and starts to lose a bi of power intermittantly. First thought was she got crummy gas, as the was the only variable that had changed. Drained the tank and blew out the gas lines just in case some gunk got in there. I pulled the plugs and they looked black, so I figured she was running a little rich, so I got new plugs and some sea foam to clean her out. Now she barely runs. Here are the symptoms she has right now... 1. fouling plugs- new plugs are already blackening- still rich? 2. stumbles and idles low when timing is adjusted correctly, better when it is about18-20 advanced 3. when she dies at bit of white vapor comes from the valve cover breather tube- no idea what that means 4. dies when throttle is opened I've tried adjusting the carb, and checked all the vaccuum lines over and over for leaks. I'm stuck, so any help would be greatly appreciated. I readjusted the valves, could I have done them too tight? I adjusted to .14 kinda snug so .15 wouldn't fit in. Is this correct? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Take a look at the choke plate ... it should be open when warmed up. The only other thing to cause rich running is it's flooding. Take a look at the glass sight level on the front of the carb. Is the fuel up to the line? I assume they have a small round bull's eye level? Perhaps some dirt got in with the gas and migrated forward. The fuel filter should stop it... maybe replace the filter and cut open to see if the paper element inside is torn, letting some crap get through. Dirt might jam the float bowl needle open and cause fooding. Quote Link to comment
twotoedbandit Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 That's what I don't get. The float level is dead on and the fuel level in the window is right at the dot per the service manual. Could it be a faulty ignition coil not producing hot enough spark? Or could it be the accelerator pump not sealing correctly. The exhaust tip was wet with gas, so it's seriously not burning right! Quote Link to comment
twotoedbandit Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Pulled the carb apart again. Cleaned and checked everything. Seems to be ok. Put new plugs in and now she won't even idle. She will run smooth with a but of sea foam intO the carb but dies as soon as its burned. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Idle cut solenoid working? Listen at carb and turn ignition on off on off (don't start) you should hear clicking sound. Have you swapped primary and secondary jets by mistake? Usually the secondary is a higher number. Is the secondary throttle plate fully closed? Quote Link to comment
twotoedbandit Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Idle cut solenoid is working correctly, And I did the jets one at a time to make sure I didn't swap them. There is a little crud in the bowl, so I'm thinking I might take it apart and clean everything again. Choke is working fine and both throttle plates are closing correctly. I'm really stumped. It seems like it should be something simple, but I'm just not figuring it out. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Well if you have removed and cleaned it and there is still crud, maybe the filter has failed and dirt getting past it. Dirt will block jets and idle circuits... Quote Link to comment
1arky Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 Could of jumped timming a notch,how many miles on the engin?check piston on#1 hole and make sure it's at the top and pulley is on 0 TDC timming mark...rock crank pulley right to left and notice any slack.. Quote Link to comment
JAS Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 Is it an automatic? If so, check the vacuum modulator, they leak by and cause all kinds of issues like this.... check the vacuum line to and from it as well. Vacuum modulators are dirt cheap and common. if all else fails, check your ignition system, coil, etc.... grounds and cap/rotor/coil wires.... weak ignition does this all too..... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 Could of jumped timming a notch,how many miles on the engin?check piston on#1 hole and make sure it's at the top and pulley is on 0 TDC timming mark...rock crank pulley right to left and notice any slack.. It would still probably run and besides retarded valve timing won't make the plugs dirty. Is it an automatic? If so, check the vacuum modulator, they leak by and cause all kinds of issues like this.... check the vacuum line to and from it as well. Vacuum modulators are dirt cheap and common. if all else fails, check your ignition system, coil, etc.... grounds and cap/rotor/coil wires.... weak ignition does this all too..... Vacuum modulators merely tell the automatic how much load the engine is under so that it not up-shift too soon. If the hose was off there would be a small vacuum leak that might affect idle. The fact that he says that it runs on sea foam but quits when it's all burned up tells me the carb is running lean and not supplying enough gas. Quote Link to comment
twotoedbandit Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Thanks guys! Haven't figured it out yet. All the bacuum lines have been replaced recently so im pretty sure its not that. Gonna pull the carb off sometime this week and see if cleaning it out helps any. Tried another ignitor to no avail. I'll probably do a new cap and rotor and check the ground too while I'm at it. I'll check back in and let you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment
twotoedbandit Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Checked cylinder one with timing marks. It's dead on. Quote Link to comment
JAS Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Back to the vacuum modulator.... the diaphram inside it will leak vacuum sometimes as well. Bought a car that had this issue for cheap, same issues your discussing. Quote Link to comment
az_rat210 Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 This is going to sound really really dumb even to me. However I had a similar issue going home one day, changed the fuel filter and all was fine. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 1. Test your fuel volume & pressure. 2. Test for vacuum leaks Fuel volume test will tell you if the fuel filter is OK or not. Better than replacing it (because most people replace them and they are not bad, there goes $5 down the drain + a waste of time). If it tests bad, then replace it. If the fuel volume test fails, narrow it down (it might not be caused by the filter, so repeat the test w/o the filter). Vacuum hoses are irrelevant. The vacuum diaphragms can be leaking even with new hoses. Check them for vacuum leaks (transmission modulator, distributor, etc). These symptoms can be caused by Ignition too. So many causes that just simply replacing parts is not usually the best idea. Cap & Rotor almost never solve a problem unless you can see burn marks on the old ones. A-series timing chains don't jump a notch. They are nearly bulletproof. Quote Link to comment
RatsunGT Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Was there ever a solution to this? Having the problem of idling, but hitting the throttle makes it sound like it isn't actuating Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.