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wirring alternator


Jovan Munoz

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The 720 were 50/60 amp so the D-21s would be at least that much and like most sensitive EFI motors they are usually much higher to keep the voltage up when idling with heater, lights and wipers on.

 

edit: 87 and up D21 and Pathfinders are 70 amp.

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As an "old fart" newkid. . . . . . .

 

What is a KA truck you mentioned above...?

 

I have an 81 720 that may need alternator work...minor or major.

Disability sucks. I will need to "special order" a new alternator if major.

 

The rubber boot connector on the back for a "T" was loose.

Now gone, but with crimp-on connectors (2) underneath.

My local wrench tested the charging system with his test meter,

but it was jumping all-over. It was jumping from 17-18 volts down to 10 -11.

I hit the highbeams and it did not flatline or dump.

 

Do you have a napa part number for the connectors ?

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No. Just cut them from a junk Yard Datsun between '68 and '86. All the same. Toyota and lots of Jap cars and trucks us Hitachi alts. Cut with long leads and splice and solder into your wires.

 

Jittery charging could be badly grounded alternator... there is a lug with a black wire for this on the back of the alt. Check the ground cable where it bolts to the intake. Check the positive cable where it bolts to the starter lug. Last of all clean and tighten the battery posts and cables.

 

The brushes may be worn out and need replacing. 23135-Q4601 at the Nissan dealer ($16) probably cheaper at NAPA

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just so it exists in writing somewhere other than PMs, I sent this to Jovan for his alternator wiring to go from his 1979 620 harness to his SR20DET alternator

 

 

620 Thick white/red = main current connection to the 620 harness = SR20 Thick white

 

620 Black = ground (body ground) = SR20 Black

 

620 Yellow = voltage reference (the S terminal on the alternator's T-plug) = SR20 Thin white

 

620 Thin white/red = switched power (the L terminal on the alternator's T-plug) = SR20 thin white/red

 

 

The datsun/nissan of this vintage (with internally-regulated alternators) all have four terminals. The newer alternators like the SR20 ones might have a different connector for the S & T terminals, but the concept is still exactly the same. I did a write-up a while ago on the 510 Realm that explains, from the alternator's perspective, what each terminal does and how to connect it --> CLICK HERE THEN SCROLL DOWN A FEW POSTS

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