Help, 510 not running good!

[banzai510(hainz)]

I know nothing about that dizzy you have but if the old points sytem did the same thing with the stock point coil and ballast then it has to be with the carb.

 

read what I said. but if the old points sytem did the same thing with the stock point coil and ballast then it has to be with the carb.

[gonzo]

I just went for a longer drive. When am accelerating the car it feels jerky, if am heavy on the pedal it feels less.

 

Heinz, I honestly don't not if it's a L18/L20! I was told by the person who sold it that it was a L16. Am goin to try and set those marks on the pulley but since my gun took a crap going to need and find another one. I actually removed the spacer in the carb to check for leaks, so I'll be putting it back later today. Is moving the distributor clockwise advance or retard?

 

I actually forgot to mention earlier that now the Mixture screw doesn't make a change even when I close it completely. Before I would screw it in all the way and it felt like shutting off and at about 1/4 turn or less it would get better. Anything more didn't change idle unless I removed it.

 

It's getting pretty hot here so I might tinker with later this afternoon when it cools down a bit don't feel like setting the EZ-up

 

Edit. * Didnt see that last post, but I didn't get to turn the dizzy that much. I believe it's a combination of a lot of things that were not done right *

[banzai510(hainz)]

look on the side of the block below the spark plugs at the rear where the water return outlet is from the head. There is a flat side and will say L16 or what ever.

 

If a L16 there should be marks on the pulley . about 5 I think.

 

CCW is retard. clock wise is adv for the dist distributor

 

 

dont remove the miixture screw all the way out.

 

 

I see you have the BCDD swithc on the side of the carb. I wonder if you could pull those wise and see what happens. I never used them myself. Just try see if that helps.

 

is you put the spacer back on you have to make gaskets for both sides.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Dont know what more to tell ya.

Get some local help, deep down this is a ez fix if you have good parts

[Spades]

I think you have a carburetor issue. The mixture screw should change the engines behavior, you should be able to turn it and kill the car almost by flooding it, and back it out and lean out so bad it should idle too fast and start running like crap.

 

Black smoke is from un-burnt fuel, sometimes ignition related, but it seems like the ignition is not the problem, jerky partial acceleration, idle issues without the choke, and the other symptoms you describe are usually related to fuel. Now as far as the carburetors go...have you rebuilt them in the past with good success? No chance you have a bad carb or maybe mis-installed something? Not trying to be harsh, I have just seen that happen before, and want to make sure it is not an issue.

 

Did you check the fuel pumps flow rate and pressure? I would still bark up the fuel tree judging by the symptoms you mention.

[gonzo]

Hey Spades, I haven't checked the fuel pressure, I'll try and tackle that tomorrow. I have never rebuilt this type of carb so there is a strong possibility that I missed something. Am goin to install the original carb I bought it with that has a manual choke and was, according to seller just rebuilt.

 

Am goin to take Hainz advice and look for a Weber 32/36 and see how that works out. Funny thing is that the Mixture was sort of working before!

[Spades]

That makes me think carburetor...it may have a problem besides just the rebuild, it may have a nick,clog, or crack somewhere it shouldn't. Do a pressure test if you have a gauge, and then grab a small container and crank the car over and watch how much fuel pumps out during cranking...if it is putting out only a trickle or the pressure is below 4 PSI or so that should give us an answer.

 

Let us know if you have good fuel pressure and if it seems to flow well when the line is not hooked to the carburetor. If that looks good and swapping the carbs doesn't change anything, let us know and we can scratch fuel off the list of concerns.

[datzenmike]

Take for a long drive and pull the plugs. Are the tips all the same color? Are they shiny white, light tan/gray, black and wet/oily or black and sooty dry?

[gonzo]

i manage to find a used 32/36 Weber with adapter plate. according to seller it came out of a 510. long story short, 510 had an unknown motor with carb on passenger side. carb is fairly clean with manual choke. i checked the flow on the mechanical fuel pump and it had a steady stream, not sure what to look for cause i have no gauge. i manage to adapt the carb on for testing purpose. i got the car to start and tried going around the block, but it felt a lot worst! it choked as soon as i touched the throttle, it was late so i called it a night. next day i picked up some older (almost new) Sears brand Timing Light, Remote Start and Automotive Analyzer from craigslist. i checked the timing and was way off, got it a few deg BTDC played with the speed idle and mixture screw a bit. i notice that the vacuum on the carb had almost no suction at idle, not like the Hitachi! idle feels a lot smoother took it around the block and i can feel way more power out of it. there a bit of choke on initial throttle responce and full/higher RPM, this might need a bit more more tweaking, low Fuel pressure or the fact that the adapter plate is not correct or jetting is off. the jets in the float bowl were 135/140 but the ones on top had no writing.

 

well so far so good, guess i just have to keep marking stuff off the check list. its been raining today so as soon as it stops i'll play with it some more.

[banzai510(hainz)]

135/140 are fine for the jets.

 

whats the timming? you shoule have enought movement from zero to 20 BTDC ez with the timming plate adjustment.

 

Just opinion on this one:

Im not a expert on that dizzy you got there. I would question this myself and swap another in there but its up to you.

 

keep doing what your doing. might just need minor adjustment. But hopefully soemone local can help you.

[gonzo]

hey Hainz, i still haven't done those marks you told me on the pulley but i think am between 5*-15* btdc. i really dont know anybody local that i can try a Dizzy to see if it changes.

 

so far everything you guys have suggested and that i've been doing is making the car run better and by the way i checked and it is a L16 motor.

 

with the Weber, what is the idle set at?

[banzai510(hainz)]

http://olddatsuns.com/ idle speed

[gonzo]

Rain stopped for a while so got a chance to hook up the Analycer since I don't have a Tach. Checked my idle RPM and it was pretty high. It was hard to adjust before with the Hitachi cause it felt like it was shutting off. According to the site idle is @ 700 rpm. I adjusted idle and mixture down to 700 but decided on 800rpm instead, timing didn't really change. seems like there's a very small choke on throttle response after pushing the pedal but after the test drive I can feel better acceleration and power thru higher RPM's and also at Full Throttle! I also noticed the water temp climb a bit, could be water pump or radiator but I'll deal with that later.

 

Rain started coming down again but all-in-all am happy how the car is coming along. It actually feels good that with the help of my fellow Ratsun Peers (and trial & error) am able to get this car going!