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Intake swap


Dr. Scagpoople

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The L16 exhaust (I got mine for $10) but $25 to $50 would be reasonable is basically a cast iron header four into two into one design. The only advantage to a 'header' is weight savings.

 

hearervsstockL16-18-1.jpg

 

All U67 heads had the intake and exhaust bolted together so you can't just change one without the other.

 

Now about the emissions intake... If you are wanting one without it just for looks then the earlier L16 intakes are the way to go. If for a performance gain forget it. The emissions intakes do nothing to performance one way or the other, in fact the L16 intake has smaller diameter runners and more restrictive than those for the larger L20B engines.

 

On emission manifolds, you can disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR to disable it or remove it all but you must build a block off plate that still retains the PCV valve. Many of these are poorly built and cause vacuum leaks. This is a lot of BS for 'looks' that do nothing. Another L20B intake that has the larger diameter runners and is separate from the exhaust manifold is found on all the '78-'80 cars and trucks with the W58 heads but will have the same 'emissions crap' as the one you have now.

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I have the L20B with the U67 head, what options do I have for switching the intake to something without the emmissions. What other heads used intakes that I can use for the U67?

 

Make sure your intake manifold has 1 1/2" ports. There is also two different size exhaust manifolds, the larger one might be off an L18?

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Only the 219 and V912 heads came with 1.5" ports. All others were smaller so an intake that large won't match them anyway.

 

In some cases a smaller runner is desirable to keep the air speed up for better cylinder filling at lower speeds. The runner should be matched to the engine displacement. An L16 intake is matched for a 1.6 liter motor. An L20B should have a larger runner diameter.

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