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ARP Studs - How'd you install them?


5NDIME

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So I bought a spare hub (thanks to a forum member) to use as a set up for the spot facing I need to do on my Libres. I also picked up a set of the ARP studs and Centerline open end nuts/washers. I soda'd the hub when I got it, made sure the surface was true and flat by doing a little light filing where it was slightly dinged. I knocked out the old studs to prepare for the ARPs. First shot I backed up the hub and deadblow hammered the first stud in. Looks solid and no issues. But then I realized I could use a large flat washer and one a nut and just impact it in place. It also looks good and solid. Either way good or bad? This is a test hub I'm just using for spot facing so it won't ever see street use, just be a machining set up. But when I get to the real ones for street/track, I want to make sure I'm not doing something stupid.

 

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Ideally you press them in from the back side. But you need a hydraulic press for that.

 

I would think that pulling them in with a nut would be OK, as long as you do not exceed the torque needed to hold the wheels on in the first place. The dead blow hammer seemed to work, also.

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Using the deadblow cannot guarantee you've seated the stud squarely, and can't push with as much force as pulling from the front side. Use TWO (or more) flat washers and lube everything with grease to minimize friction. There's tools made for this, but if you don't have the bucks (or access to a press), then the nut/washers method is the best way to go. If you've got a torque wrench even better. Put it on flatside down, and run them up to about 70-75 #'s, and use a new lugnut every two studs~ they are soft metal and may gall up some even with the grease. That may sound like a high torque~ but you've got frictional losses in the washer stack, so fear not. When you're done throw these lugnuts in the recycle~ don't reuse them. The threads~ even if not galled~ have been stressed in the opposite direction of normal use.

 

Peace

Scott

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Guest kamakazi620

Using the deadblow cannot guarantee you've seated the stud squarely, and can't push with as much force as pulling from the front side. Use TWO (or more) flat washers and lube everything with grease to minimize friction. There's tools made for this, but if you don't have the bucks (or access to a press), then the nut/washers method is the best way to go. If you've got a torque wrench even better. Put it on flatside down, and run them up to about 70-75 #'s, and use a new lugnut every two studs~ they are soft metal and may gall up some even with the grease. That may sound like a high torque~ but you've got frictional losses in the washer stack, so fear not. When you're done throw these lugnuts in the recycle~ don't reuse them. The threads~ even if not galled~ have been stressed in the opposite direction of normal use.

 

Peace

Scott

^^^^^What he said + if you have a welder and a bench vise you could make a jig to put the hub in and press the studs in with the vise,Or make a jig with a bottle jack =homemade press!!!

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Using the deadblow cannot guarantee you've seated the stud squarely, and can't push with as much force as pulling from the front side. Use TWO (or more) flat washers and lube everything with grease to minimize friction. There's tools made for this, but if you don't have the bucks (or access to a press), then the nut/washers method is the best way to go. If you've got a torque wrench even better. Put it on flatside down, and run them up to about 70-75 #'s, and use a new lugnut every two studs~ they are soft metal and may gall up some even with the grease. That may sound like a high torque~ but you've got frictional losses in the washer stack, so fear not. When you're done throw these lugnuts in the recycle~ don't reuse them. The threads~ even if not galled~ have been stressed in the opposite direction of normal use.

 

Peace

Scott

 

I have every damn tool execpt a press (hmmm, is Harbor Freight open at 10PM?). Yeah, I flipped the nuts over and ran them down using a thick grade 8 washer. Good call on tossing the nuts. Maybe by the time it comes down to doing this on my real hubs I'll go the press method. Is there actually a base made for backing up hubs when pressing in a stud?

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