z24 issues

[bilzbobaggins]

Got the brakes on my 720 functioning, so it was time to pull it out of the building and see how she ran. I put a new weber on 5 months ago(slowww azz me) but the brakes kept me from doing anything.

 

Soooo, started right up, but gd, smoking like nothing else. I did start it 5 months ago, but it was nothing like this. Clouds of burnt ass oil. It idles and starts fine.

 

Im fixing to eat and go back to the warehouse to work. No damn internets there.

 

Anything I should be looking for?

 

4x4 works happy bout that and the trans is still popping outta first, but plan on doing that first of week.

 

 

Stopped and got fresh oil n filter, plugs etc etc on the way here.

 

Water level is not going anywhere. Its rusty looking. Let it set and run for a while. The motor is missing as well. Should I try and retorqe the head? I know its 60 pounds in any order(cold I think). I hope the head is fine or a ring aint toast. Ill take the comp tester with me when I go back.

 

Any ideas or suggestions will be great.

 

Thanks

 

Jeff

[datzenmike]

Oil smoke is not good. You can try tuning it up but it might be good money after bad.

 

Adjust the valves and set the timing. Check that both intake and exhaust side plugs are firing. You can inspect the plugs to see if you can locate the oil burning cylinder. Set the idle mixture and idle speed. Check any hoses for leaking/cracks. So far no cost but you should replace the oil/filter, gas filter.

 

Drive it around and see if the smoking goes away or lessens

[bilzbobaggins]

Thanks d-mike. Im waiting to shoot the cat then im going back. Super embarrassing to ask, but what size are the head bolts? Only tools ill have there are the ones I take.

 

Thanks

 

Jeff

 

Still searching for the fust box layout, no cover on it

[datzenmike]

Jeez the L series are 10mm hex but the Z series are regular bolts. 14 or 15mm I would guess

[datzenmike]

Jeez the L series are 10mm hex but the Z series are regular bolts. 14 or 15mm I would guess. Loosen and tighten (one at a time) when cold.

[bilzbobaggins]

Yup, they are 14mm. I new the L's were hex, didnt know about the z. Both coils are firing. Pulled the intake plugs, all were oily. Comp test wasnt to bad 169 178 175 162

 

Heres what im thinking. I belive I read that the electric fuel pump relay should come on when ignition is switched on, then time out and come back on when it gets a signal from the alt. Mine never stops pumping. The weber is new, but I wonder if WAY to much fuel is getting in. The oil is extra fuel smelling to me. It will idle well, but falls FLAT on its face when trying to accel.

 

Forgot my damn feeler gauge. On the z's, I check in the middle where the cam lobe and rocker meet, correct?

 

To adjust, break the small lock nut loose and use a screwdriver to change the setting?

 

Didnt get to the parts store before they closed to get a new wire set, first store didnt have a set. Hopefully I can get one before I go in tommarow.

 

I must have the worlds worst timing gun. It must be pitch black to see the strobe. Am I looking for a notch on the pully to shoot at? The timing tab is still on the block thankfully.

 

Im tired and off to shower and sleep.

 

Thanks

 

Jeff

[datzenmike]

Yup, they are 14mm. I new the L's were hex, didnt know about the z. Both coils are firing. Pulled the intake plugs, all were oily. Comp test wasnt to bad 169 178 175 162

 

Heres what im thinking. I belive I read that the electric fuel pump relay should come on when ignition is switched on, then time out and come back on when it gets a signal from the alt. Mine never stops pumping. The weber is new, but I wonder if WAY to much fuel is getting in. The oil is extra fuel smelling to me. It will idle well, but falls FLAT on its face when trying to accel.

 

Key in ON starts the timer, crank starter holds it on while cranking, starter off timer begins again and if running there must be alt output AND oil pressure or the timer ends and motor quits. There is also an input from the accessory position on the ignition... naturally the pump is inhibited if in this position.

 

Interesting that you know about the relay, only a few FSMs have them mentioned. Haynes and Chilton don't.

 

Forgot my damn feeler gauge. On the z's, I check in the middle where the cam lobe and rocker meet, correct?

 

To adjust, break the small lock nut loose and use a screwdriver to change the setting?

Thanks

 

Jeff

 

Yes