No fusible link

[dscottdatsun]

On my 79' 620 the PO spliced in a piece multi-strand house/commercial wire for the fusible-link. I could just replace it but was also thinking of installing a circut breaker. This would then give me a "fused" point to feed relays (like yello620 did in his build) for the headlights, and a future electic fuel pump.

I found a couple of topics with much heated debate on the subject of circut breakers. My idea was simply as a replacement for the fusible-link.

It may also be helpful if yello620 gave more detail about his great work on using the Pathfinder relays. It looks great and I always love to use factory parts vs. aftermarket when ever possible.

 

Scott

[datzenmike]

A fusible link can sustain a major current overload from a catastrophic short (usually only encountered in an accident) without blowing out immediately like a fuse. Instead it overheats and slowly melts the internal wire. What makes this important is a brief heavy load does not destroy the fusible link immediately and the system can recover and the special plastic insulation which resists breaking into flame. (also important in an accident)

 

Using house wiring is a retarded (no not mentally handicapped, this is way beyond that) idea by a previous owner. Here are the color odes for the current capacity of Nissan (280z) fusible link wires. Other years are likely similar.

 

Pink 30 amps

Green 40 amps

Red 50 amps

Yellow 60 amps

Black 80 amps 80 amps

Blue 100 amps 100 amps

Fusible links provide protection for wires between the battery and the fuse box.

[metalmonkey47]

Whatever you do, fix it right.

 

Don't fix it ghetto.

[ggzilla]

A fusible link is as inexpensive as $2. The geuinine Nissan ones are about $7.

 

Whatever you do, don't fit a larger one than the stock 1979 wiring harness can handle.

 

Nissan part number 25442-H2500, Spec: FUL 0.5mm2 [0.5 square mm] (20 gauge)