B210 troubles

[PinoyDat210]

Okay i recently had a thread labeled "b210 won't start" and since then i have been under the hood relentlessly and frustrated trying to get it going. Well for starters i had the carb redone and it turns out the fuel jet gasket was blown. After having that fixed and rebuilt proffesionally the carb is golden! I have removed all the emissions controls, since they were just dragging the engine down anyway. I triple double checked and made sure all the intake openings were sealed and enclosed the egr with a metal block plate that took me forever to build (primitive tools!). haha. I also installed a manual choke setup for my dch-306. So i had it reassembled checked everything again and procceded to start it. At first the engine wouldnt spare life, but after some throttle pumping i got it to fire. Now to me it sounded like it idled very high(when i got the chance to release the pedal) and it sounded like some kind of metal was being shaken not loudly but just enough inside the block, mind u that that is the best i can describe, it did not sound like a very healthy engine. Other than that everytime i would release the throttle for the most part it died. I am really confused and extremely eager to get it on the road and atleast test drive it. Any ideas to what is going on, would be great! it also seems to leak oil out the back of the valve cover gasket, even though the gasket is new and so are the bolts and they are tight. This car has been my haunting nightmare all summer long and i am just so confused. I have been on the verge of giving up but i know the finished product would taste so sweet! I love my datsun, but i am at the point now that i just want to save my money and do an engine swap. Thank you your feedback will not go in vane!

[Nicholas7620]

Post Pic's so we can see your set up. Are you sure you have all your vaccuum lines reconnected, are your vaccuum lines new?

[PinoyDat210]

Yea here is my setup, been cleaning up alot. It looks sexy haha, wish it ran like that. What really sucks is this is my only car so it is really important i get this squared away. I have been having to ride my bike everywhere(haha true japan style j/ks) but its getting freaken cold! I havent bought all new lines, i used some of the existing ones. I checked for brittle ends and cracks and incisions, which they appeared fine. idk though, im still learning, this is my first project. I really do appreciate everyones input, i wanna be part of the Datsun owners club!

 

 

[datzenmike]

Fast idle will be normal on cold start up as the choke will be on. When the choke is on the fast idle is engaged to speed warm up. Within 5-8 minutes the choke should be pulled off and the fast idle will disconnect. Now with the engine warm some settings and adjustments will need to be done to the carb as everything has been changed when it was rebuilt.

[PinoyDat210]

Yea! thanks, my dad a mechanic also said the same, i will have him help me set the timing and all that. Thanks i appreciate the help!

[datzenmike]

Get it running and set the valve lash hot, set the timing if you can get the idle low enough. If not adjust the cab then set the timing then go back and check the carb.

[PinoyDat210]

Sorry if i sound like an idiot but what do you mean by the valve lash? like the clearance? What should i set the timing to? Thanks for the help!!

[az_rat210]

I have had the clanking noise occur when I seated my distributor on the exhaust stroke of the No 1 cylinder instead of the compression stroke. Recheck the alignment if you removed the distributor at some point. If the distributor was not removed then its not the issue.

 

If the car dies when foot is removed from pedal this could be fuel cut off solenoid going bad. Easy to check, take out the solenoid and remove the needle, see if the car idles after that, if so its the solenoid.

 

Cap off all vacuum ports while getting the car running right to ensure no vacuum leaks. Once the motor is running well then you can hook up vacuum lines and troubleshoot those.

 

The oil leak at back of Valve cover could be due to the lip being bent upwards. (lips on these valve covers is very thin). To fix the leak on mine, I took off the cover, gasket clean all surfaces with acetone, made sure there was no residue or build up whatsoever, ensured the lip was straight all the way around. If you look inside the valve cover around the edge is a raised lip that is supposed to provide seal on the gasket. Sometimes its necessary to apply gasket sealer though.

 

If this were my car I would do the following steps.

 

1) Re-Align distributor on Compression Stroke of No 1 cylinder

2) Plug all vacuum lines and remove the fuel cut-off solenoid needle. (your brake booster vacuum is still connected).

3) See if I could get the car running properly at 8 degrees BTDC.

 

Some observations: You are missing 2 heat shields and exhaust manifold is not wrapped, this may cause problems once the car is warmed up with vapor lock. You might consider getting some heat wrap to put around that exhaust manifold to reduce the amount of heat coming up to the Carburetor. I note this is a water cooled intake manifold so with the heat wrap you should be good to avoid vapor lock.

 

Good luck with this. Hope you have it running soon.

[king bee66]

that looks pretty nice all cleaned up. btw your car is a 210 or b310 not a b210

[Nicholas7620]

Very nice looking engine bay, let us know how you solve problem, I've had my share of carburetor, idling problems. You got great advice and information from posters.

 

Here's a video on valve lash adjustment.

 

 

Timing, start with 10 degrees before top dead center, that's the factory setting for my 76 B210, you may need a little more. I have the stock Hitachi Carb. I have to pass smog and keep engine stock.