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Amp and subs...


DAT510

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I hooked up my amp and subs, they're not working. as some have previously seen, I am by no means a electrical expert. Infact i'm more newb than a newbie.

I give great thanks to Josh who has helped me tremendously already, but i need moar halp.

 

let me start with the wiring in the box since that's less obvious, each woofer is wired to and individual terminal, so + and - to each + and - terminal

so from my understanding these are wired individually in series?

I know it's grounding because the two wires touched and made a huge spark! (like welding)

if you can't tell already, my work is very messy yes, but i'm just testing waters right now. but every connection is crimped and every connection is solid.

although im doubting that blue wire.. which is supposed to be my remote wire.

i should also mention that in my rear speakers weren't working until i did this: my stereo wiring harness the blue with white stripe wire is the remote, and there was 3 wires left over in the car harness one which was blue with white and for some reason were connected to the rear speakers. so i connected the two and rear speakers worked, so i have the remote and blue/white wire on that single blue/white wire coming from the stereo

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You have a few problems going on...

 

To find if you do have power at amp simply attach the blue line from the amp to the power in (its just looking for power to say ignition is on) Many people just install it to a switch so they can turn off the subs easily (switch goes somewhere like the center console).

 

Your sub wiring is a problem.

 

You have your subs on each channel (A&B) but you are only supplying audio to (A).

 

The other problem after reading the manual, you need to switch the Ach and Bch Operation switches to mono.

 

So flip those switches.

 

Now since you only are supplying audio to Ach only your Ach Sub will make sound.

You need to find a cable that splits the end at the amp so you are supplying a signal to both A&B.

 

OR you can run both subs on Ach, but I wont tell you the wiring on that until you decide that is the way to go and you say the impedance of your subs.

 

 

 

Oh and dont forget to check the fuse to see if it blew...

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You have a few problems going on...

 

To find if you do have power at amp simply attach the blue line from the amp to the power in (its just looking for power to say ignition is on) Many people just install it to a switch so they can turn off the subs easily (switch goes somewhere like the center console).

 

 

Blue wire from amp to positive place on amp? so basically

+ O -

I__I I______

 

sorry for crude drawing

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You have a few problems going on...

 

To find if you do have power at amp simply attach the blue line from the amp to the power in (its just looking for power to say ignition is on) Many people just install it to a switch so they can turn off the subs easily (switch goes somewhere like the center console).

 

Your sub wiring is a problem.

 

You have your subs on each channel (A&B) but you are only supplying audio to (A).

 

The other problem after reading the manual, you need to switch the Ach and Bch Operation switches to mono.

 

So flip those switches.

 

Now since you only are supplying audio to Ach only your Ach Sub will make sound.

You need to find a cable that splits the end at the amp so you are supplying a signal to both A&B.

 

OR you can run both subs on Ach, but I wont tell you the wiring on that until you decide that is the way to go and you say the impedance of your subs.

 

 

 

Oh and dont forget to check the fuse to see if it blew...

 

Each sub is 4 ohms and thats the way to go. unless there is a major reason to go the other way. i'd rather have good sounding subs rather than loud

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Blue wire from amp to positive... Will turn the amp on, even with the car off. Blue wire needs a 12v+ signal to turn on the amp. So you can run this to any igntion power on the car or just run it to battery and install a switch. If you just jump it, it will drain your battery, I was saying to jump it for a test.

 

So if you want to run the subs like you have it wired, you need to also supply the Bch input with signal(same as A channel is fine)

 

To run them both off of Ach, run them in series off of the Ach output.

 

 

 

 

To make a quick test to see if things work, hit the mono switchs, connect the blue line to power line temporarily. Turn your radio on and test.

 

You should be getting 1 sub to fire currently.

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Each sub is 4 ohms and thats the way to go. unless there is a major reason to go the other way. i'd rather have good sounding subs rather than loud

 

So which is the way to go?

 

Running each sub separately or running them on the same signal?

 

Your amp has 2 amps in it, 1 for Ach and 1 for Bch. You will get best sound and best loudness if you run them separate...

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Blue wire from amp to positive... Will turn the amp on, even with the car off. Blue wire needs a 12v+ signal to turn on the amp. So you can run this to any igntion power on the car or just run it to battery and install a switch. If you just jump it, it will drain your battery, I was saying to jump it for a test.

 

So if you want to run the subs like you have it wired, you need to also supply the Bch input with signal(same as A channel is fine)

 

To run them both off of Ach, run them in series off of the Ach output.

 

 

 

 

To make a quick test to see if things work, hit the mono switchs, connect the blue line to power line temporarily. Turn your radio on and test.

 

You should be getting 1 sub to fire currently.

 

Nothing.

Fuse is fine, and ran blue wire from + and moved the wires of the sub to A channel the amp didn't ever turn on.

Amps fried?

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Disconnect all wires except the power leads.

 

You need to see if you can get the light on the top of the sub to turn on.

 

Batt goes to batt, Gnd is grounded, and P.con just needs a 12v signal from anywhere. Connecting those should make the light light up...

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Disconnect all wires except the power leads.

 

You need to see if you can get the light on the top of the sub to turn on.

 

Batt goes to batt, Gnd is grounded, and P.con just needs a 12v signal from anywhere. Connecting those should make the light light up...

 

Yeah the first time around it was because the supposed remote wire wasn't 12v, it was 3.

no biggie ill find a 12v switchable lead somewhere else on the car

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I give up.

Three different amps.

I got something on a 360w amp.

Now? Nothing.

I'll let my dad deal with it.

ill try again tomorrow.

 

BTW: amps are getting power, at first i thought my stereo wasn't putting out sound through the RCA cables, so i plugged in my ipod to RCA cables and ran it directly to the amp and subs, and got something. ONLY when i tried that.

i tried that again just now. NOTHING. FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Blue wire from amp to positive... Will turn the amp on, even with the car off. Blue wire needs a 12v+ signal to turn on the amp. So you can run this to any igntion power on the car or just run it to battery and install a switch. If you just jump it, it will drain your battery, I was saying to jump it for a test.

 

So if you want to run the subs like you have it wired, you need to also supply the Bch input with signal(same as A channel is fine)

 

To run them both off of Ach, run them in series off of the Ach output.

 

 

 

 

To make a quick test to see if things work, hit the mono switchs, connect the blue line to power line temporarily. Turn your radio on and test.

 

You should be getting 1 sub to fire currently.

 

his amp has a switch to send input from channel a to a and b. make sure you switched it to that. and make sure you have 12v to the remote wire (blue) and to the + wire and negative to the - wire. and make sure you have the subs bridged right. they can be on the wrong terminals and not play. check that the RCA cables are working and that they are in the back of the head unit all the way. and make sure the gain isnt all the way down. and the low pass might be on as well. that amp is complicated to set up for subs for noobs cuz there is a whole panel of screws and switches and stuff.

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