v-juice Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 I have a 1972 510 thats automatic and was planning in making it stick shift and I wondering if anyone knows if the engine, tranny, and anything needed to make it stick from a 1974 620 truck would fit and work. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Heya. What you're going to need to get, is a manual pedal assembly from another 510. The truck 5-speeds are long-tail transmissions, same as 280zx 5 speeds. You will have to shorten the driveshaft off your stock 510 to fit correctly. The engine will bolt up just fine, although you'll have to use the stock 510 engine mounts. You can also install the flywheel off the manual truck to your stock engine and do it that way, if you are keeping your original engine. Else, everything should swap right over. You will have to have your exhaust changed, if the new engine is an L20B as the deck of the block is higher, and will likely prohibit you from using your stock downpipe. You'll have to get a tranny crossmember modified to fit the 5-speeds as well. Experimental Engineering is where I purchased mine (custom crossmember) but I'm not sure if they are still doing fab work or not. I believe you can use a stock 510 transmission crossmember and cut, flip, and reweld it to use with a 5 speed. I'm not positive on that though, somebody else will have to chime in. I'm not sure on the differences between manuals and automatic's (stock). Fundamentally you're just slapping in the same thing, just the dimensions are a bit off. Same alternator, starter, all that generic stuff. Fuel pump is the same. In a nutshell, everything from the 620 pickup will swap into the 510 just fine. Don't hesitate to ask more questions if you need help, that's what we're here for! Oh, and pictures are a must. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Oh yes, you'll have to get a 280z single stud transmission mount/isolator. They are cheap, readily available.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Digi7al Trauma Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 But anyways... just like Boaty said... you will need a clutch pedal/assy, a tach (dont "need" but great to have), ect... and that all depends on motor's... once you tell us what engine is going in and coming out... we might be able to tell you if you will need a new exhaust mani, oilpan, pickup tube, motor mounts..... also using the SEARCH button.... youll notice that about 3/4 of the dimes on the site have l20b's in them (im assuming that is the motor you are swapping in) .... but hurry up and get us moar specifics and well actually be able to HELP you..... and do your homework on this Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 He says it's a '74 so it should have an L18 in it but after all these years it could have anything. To repeat or add to your list ... You can swap the 620 engine and 4 speed into your 510 whether it's an L18 or L20B. The 620 clutch hard line likely won't fit the 510 so make one new. You will need to get the clutch and brake peddles from a standard 510... the 620 ones won't work. Fabricate a new hydraulic clutch hard line. (see 3/ below) Use pre made brake line of suitable length and bend yourself You will need to shorten your driveshaft about 5 1/2" You will need to modify the rear transmission mount, possibly turning it around backwards too. You may have to relocate the shifter hole back an inch or two. Other than that: 1/ Install the 510 peddles and connect the brake push rod to the brake master cylinder. 2/ Remove the block off plate and install the 620 clutch master cylinder... connect it to the new peddle. 3/ Install clutch hard line from master to flex line at slave cylinder. (flex line and slave are from the 620) Consider replacing the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft, about $5 and also the release bearing, about $15-$20. This is good insurance against having to remove the transmission later to do it then. If clutch looks good run it. If not replace it now rather than removing the transmission later to do so. Should be a l225mm but check. Definitely drain the 4 speed before removing it. The drain plug has a magnet on it so inspect for chunks of metal. Refill with 80-90W GL-4 Extreme Pressure oil once the transmission is in. Also a good idea to replace the rear seal on it now than later, about $6. Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 And if you've got to do exhaust work as Boaty suggests, get yourself a new flange from MKLOTZ here~ http://www.bluehandsinc.com/ It's cheap insurance! Quote Link to comment
Digi7al Trauma Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 He says it's a '74 so it should have an L18 in it but after all these years it could have anything. :P lol it could have any motor in there... yes its a 74... most likely stock (wich was never said).... but you of all people know that there could be anything... even a toy 22r :lol: Quote Link to comment
v-juice Posted October 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 The truck has a l18 with a 4 speed tranny and thanks for the advice will post pics soon Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 I think the spot where the clutch master will be going, is already stamped out on the firewall. Not positive, but you just break out that section, maybe? Not sure on the mounting tab for the slave cylinder, but if you need a picture of where to mount one (if it isn't already on your car) let me know, I'll go snag a picture for you while the car's up in the air. Make sure you double check which slave cylinder rod you need, some are solid, some are adjustable with a stop nut. This depends on what clutch fork you're going to be using. If it's just a dimple on the clutch fork, use a straight rod. If it has a hole, you will need an adjustable slave cylinder rod. Usually they don't come with replacement slaves... the acorn nut is what hits the clutch fork. FWIW whenever I get a new rod with mine, it is always the straight pin for some reason. I also recommend grabbing the slave off a 280zx Turbo... stock 510 slave replacements come as cast aluminum for some reason. The 280zx Raybestos replacements are cast iron, as per stock. They all are physically the same, even into the S13 years if I remember correctly. Car slaves have a 90 degree mount for the slave hose, truck slaves are straight if I remember correctly. If you run into a problem - pictures for us, help for you! Quote Link to comment
v-juice Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Do you know if ill be able to use the wirering off the truck Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Do you know if ill be able to use the wirering off the truck Yes and no you can't. Quote Link to comment
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