Installing new clutch kit

[RFO]

I have a l16 on my 510 & I wanna know if it's hard to change a clutch?? Step by step instructions are welcome thanks

[ggzilla]

Yes, it is hard to change a clutch. You have to remove the transmission (or the engine).

 

Then putting it back together there are several ways to do it incorrectly. Even when a professional shop does it, they sometimes do it wrong. Therefore I always do it myself, so I know who to blame.

[datzenmike]

Yes, it is hard to change a clutch. You have to remove the transmission (or the engine).

 

Then putting it back together there are several ways to do it incorrectly. Even when a professional shop does it, they sometimes do it wrong. Therefore I always do it myself, so I know who to blame.

 

I would say there is a finite number of way to do it right, a infinite number of ways to do it wrong. This is just the nature of trying to reverse entropy.

 

Remove positive battery cable.

Remove the shifter by unbolting from underneath, save the rubber cones and washers if they fall out.

Mark the driveshaft at the diff flange so it goes back together in the same position and remove.

Drain tranny oil and remove the speedo cable and wiring to the reverse lights. Tie up out of the way.

Unbolt starter and move forward out of the way. Leave wired up.

Unbolt the clutch slave and tie up out of the way. Hang on to the pushrod and be sure the piston does not force it's way out from the fluid pressure above it. Perhaps tie it in such a way that the piston cannot come out.

Support tranny with hydraulic jack and remove rear tranny mount bolts from the body. Leave mount on the tranny.

Lower tranny slightly to gain access to top tranny to engine bolts. You may need to loosen/disconnect the down pipe at the exhaust manifold to allow the engine and tranny to tilt downward at the back.

Remove all tranny/engine mounting bolts.

You may need to tilt the front of the motor upward to gain room to pull the tranny back and downward enough for the input shaft to disengage and clear the pressure plate. Have a jack ready to catch the tranny as it slides out.

 

Loosen the pressure plate bolts several turns at a time going in a circle. Do not remove them one at a time.

Lift the PP off catching the clutch disc as you do.

 

Inspect the flywheel surface for grooving fro overly warn clutch disc rivets. If shiny and smooth lightly sand in a circular motion to remove the glaze.

 

Install PP and position the clutch disc with the spline tool provided in the clutch kit.

Tighten PP mounting bolts evenly several turns at a time in a criss-cross pattern. Remove the tool.

Remove the release bearing collar from the clutch arm taking note how i is clipped on.

Draw off the old bearing and press on a new one in a vice using a block of wood to protect it.

Be sure to pack the new bearing with grease and lightly pack the cavity inside the collar with axle grease.

Lightly grease the pivot ball under the clutch arm and the two contact points where the release collar clips to the clutch arm.

Lightly grease the tranny input splines and wipe off with a rag. (Any excess grease anywhere, can spin off and foul the new clutch)

 

Installation is more or less the same as removal. Don't forget to replace the tranny oil with new GL-4 80 w 90 or equivalent marked 'yellow metal safe' oil. Last thing... connect the positive battery cable.

[metalmonkey47]

Honestly, difficulty depends on how mechanically inclined you are.

 

 

First time I ever did it, it was a PITA and hated it. But now I can get the transmission off my car in under 20 minuets on ramps and do a clutch job in about an hour.

[RFO]

Thanks guys