4x4 locker in rear?

[ronnny]

So anyone here with a 720 4x4 lock thier rear axle? Looking around it should have a c200 rear axle that came with only 3 different ratios most of which are 4.6 to 1. Anyone know of a cheap locker for it or is the best option to pull the cover and weld the spider gears? I just do not see much in the option without being high dollar. I do know the drawbacks and have done on other things. If there is a lunchbox locker or such for these i will go that route but if the only choices are arb or detriot that is way out of the budget and will just pull the cover and weld it up. Also if any choices on lower than stock gearsets would be nice.

 

Thanks Ronny

[datzenmike]

Yours will be a C-200 but up until mid '82 the H-190 was used on both 2 and 4wd. The C-200 in the 4x4 only came with 4.11s in them. There was a 4.625 in the 2wd HD or Cab Chassis option I think.

[Wide14u]

can you switch the c200 and h190

[datsunaholic]

You can (change the whole rear end to do it) but the C200 is stronger, AND if you think C200 lockers are expensive, don't try looking for H190 ones. They're so long out of production that the ones folks are selling (when they come up) are WAY more expensive than the C200 ones. You'd be better off looking for an H233B.

[ronnny]

Would we not be better off just changing to a toyota axle and having more gear options and locker option also? of cousre you would need to do the front also. Of course i know the wagoneer and others are out there but was looking more for simple than heavy duty. Was looking for just something mild but would make it to the fishing hole and back.

[datzenmike]

Well if you mean the solid axle swap (SAS) from a 'Yoda that's a lot of work pulling the torsion bar suspension and steering off a 720. I did it on a 2wd 720 frame... don't recommend it. :lol: Everything was a one off part to make it fit.

 

If you primarily off road your 4x4 then weld up the diff. Its the fastest, cheapest, effective method. Not really good for on pavement though.

[ronnny]

No it is not a trail only or mostly. I have a 25 mile round trip to work. I have ued spooled rear in jeeps before and not had a problem out of them. I figure the same in a datsun/nissan just no pulling stuff. Just like to be sure and 3 wheel drive will be more than enough. And they say 31's with stock gears are bad so wold like to go a little lower in them. But that is the setup i would like.31x10.5 with no lift and a locked rear.

[datzenmike]

29s will fit without rub but anything bigger will to varying amounts. 31s with 4.11s is a bit much, doable but poor performance on the street. Maybe a 4" body lift? 4.625 C-200 would be perfect but you need to change the R-180 in the front too..

[ronnny]

Just looking at options. right now i am still in getting the truck running stage. It is home and my old weber off the 81 i had is on it. Tonight at work i am making a link to connect the throttle cable to the carb. Maybe tomorrow ifin i do not work over in the morning will try to get it to start. I know the clutch is good because will not pull with it in gear by the way i brought it home on a tow bar. But the peddle goes straight to the floor with no resistence but does come right back up. There is still fluid in the master cylinder for the clutch. But that is a after i get the motor running part. On another post someone said they got about 20 around town with 30" tires and a weber. If i can get the same i will be happy. That is all the tire i need and will trim fenders if need be to have no lift. But like in my other trucks i want more than just 2 wheel drive so locking the rear or welding it will give me a true 3by4. The toyota i had with open front and rear diffs was borderline for me. It was stock with the exception of 31" tires. For me the tire hieght is not as important as the traction in the grass and fields.

[poopypants720]

29s will fit without rub but anything bigger will to varying amounts. 31s with 4.11s is a bit much, doable but poor performance on the street. Maybe a 4" body lift? 4.625 C-200 would be perfect but you need to change the R-180 in the front too..

.... i have bfg all terrain baja 32x11.5(on 4runner rims, lol) on my 81 datsun and im fairly certain its a 2(maybe 3?)inch body lift with no rubbing... only other thing I have are rancho shocks.... fairly certain nothing else is on it but it was purchased with it all.

 

I too am fairly interested in getting some locking action in the rear diff... but def dont want to weld it up, i drive it round town too much.... options? n your sayin an SAS is more trouble then its worth?

[poopypants720]

Just looking at options. right now i am still in getting the truck running stage. It is home and my old weber off the 81 i had is on it. Tonight at work i am making a link to connect the throttle cable to the carb. Maybe tomorrow ifin i do not work over in the morning will try to get it to start. I know the clutch is good because will not pull with it in gear by the way i brought it home on a tow bar. But the peddle goes straight to the floor with no resistence but does come right back up. There is still fluid in the master cylinder for the clutch. But that is a after i get the motor running part. On another post someone said they got about 20 around town with 30" tires and a weber. If i can get the same i will be happy. That is all the tire i need and will trim fenders if need be to have no lift. But like in my other trucks i want more than just 2 wheel drive so locking the rear or welding it will give me a true 3by4. The toyota i had with open front and rear diffs was borderline for me. It was stock with the exception of 31" tires. For me the tire hieght is not as important as the traction in the grass and fields.

 

im only runnin a 32/34 weber DFT and i actually get alright mpg, around 20+....still peppy too with my thorley headers and test section for a cat ;) (that was before i blew out my main freeze plug :( )