Bearings and calipers and rotors and pads, oh my!

[HRH]

So I finally got around to yanking apart the 4wd hub today. My first, actually. It was simpler than I thought, once I managed to pry the rusty manual hub off the rest of the spindle/rotor assembly. Made a cool tool, ignore the not so pretty welding. Worked just great to press in the new race. Had to use a socket on the other side, didn't get lucky enough to find another alternator pulley to weld to that one.

Found vertical marks on the bearings where they etched in from sitting probably when the kid was trying to sell it for a while with the knocking motor. Going to eat dinner then put it back together, then maybe start on the other side, which should go much quicker.

 

 

 

[HRH]

[mklotz70]

Very nice :)

[HRH]

Why thank you sir! And to make matters worse, I called mom at 8:40 this morning to wish her happy birthday, which was good. But then I didn't come over for dinner or anything and apparently mom was miffed. So I called dad to confirm, and then suggested I get up really early before work and make dinner as a surprise tomorrow morning. Just as well, I'm doing the slowest job in the world on the hardbody. And I need to hub tool to set the torque to set the bearing. I think I'm going to do it like the 510 specs. Torque to spec, then back off 90 degrees. We'll see where it is then.

 

After getting the hub on at least, I cut up an old 720 air filter housing for the little breather filter. Ended up putting that in place of the open-air breather, we'll see if it controls the spooging on the 510 at high rpm. I'm taking it tomorrow since the D21 isn't finished yet.

 

So get up really early, drive to mom and dad's, then drive to work, then drive back and hopefully finish up the D21 tomorrow night. Busy busy, but at least I'll be off mom's shit list. :)

[HRH]

Anyone happen to have the factory service manual procedure for setting the bearing torque on the front hubs?

[mklotz70]

factory manual is avail for free download at www.olddatsuns.com on the tech page :)

 

edit....doh!!! forgot it was 4wd.....not sure if it's on there or not

[HRH]

Yeah, I checked, no D21 stuff since it's technically not Datsun. :) Think I'll go by Jaremko tomorrow before work and see if I can't photocopy a few pages from the fsm. I have a procedure in the haynes manual, but it's rather vague. Hoping the factory manual has a little better explanation.

[mklotz70]

I'm guessing Datzenmike or Datsunaholic would have access to the info if you can't get it. You might try pm'ing them.

[HRH]

Okay, finally got around to working on the truck some more. Been enjoying driving the 510, even with the little issues. Went by Jaremko's this morning (in the loud ass 510 ) and photocopied the procedure from the '93 FSM. Very helpful. Similar to what the Haynes manual said, but much better explanation and it made more sense after I read it. After multiple dickings I finally got the bearing torque to about 2 ft-lbs of preload, which is well within spec and towards the low side. I can always tighten it back up after I run it for a bit too. Not really very hard either. 6 bolts and one snap clip.

One thing I didn't like was how much rust was in the locking hub. I took the clutch to the wire wheel and got most of the rust off it. I attempted to get the hub apart, but you need a strong ass magnet to pull the cog out, then turn clockwise to disengage it from the rest of the hub body. I'll get a magnet tomorrow and yank that apart and get the rest of the rust flakes out. Low odor mineral spirits works great for cleaning the clutch. I had to take the air nozzle and get the rest of the old grease out to ensure no leftover metal flakes were in the bearing assembly. Had a few little catches, but they disappeared after the blow out. Then regreased, and put back together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[HRH]

AH-HAH! Got more done last night, didn't have time to upload pictures, was busy preparing for the rapture. Borrowed a big magnet from Dad, that did the trick for getting the hubs apart. Just have to final torque, then start on the other side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[HRH]

Well shit, ran out of grease. Have to get some more tomorrow morning. Here's a video of a cool revelation though!

 

[HRH]

Got my hubs back on, found a set at the pull and save that was better than the ones I had, so I bought those and refurbished them up. Also, the hub tool isn't listed to my knowledge, but the part number is 776-9179 (BK) from NAPA. Two stud hub socket to fit Isuzu Rodeo/Passport, and Jeeps with Dana 60 axle. And of course for Nissan D21s! Don't know why they don't list that.

[HRH]

Got everything done, then yanked out the rear driveshaft. Found two u-joints were fine, the third at the diff was bad. Need to replace that still. Just spent an hour or so dicking with the center support bearing for the driveshaft. The Japanese Altrom replacement had issues. Again. I've been running the stock bearing for quite a while now. Tried to change it a year or two ago and the damn thing bound up. They said they were fixing it.

 

Went to put it in tonight, hmmmm, bound up again upon tightening. Yanked it off again and started measuring flanges, and there was the problem. The dust seal flanges that extend out are too long on the new bearing, by about .100" That makes quite a difference when you tighten it down. Anyway, made a video for the Altrom rep because they need to fix this shit. Then took the center support bearing to the belt sander and sanded down both sides of the dust lip and now it's on and fits perfectly! I'd post pictures but I'm too tired.

[HRH]

Okay, so here's the wrap up! The D21 is done with new bearings, rotors, pad, calipers, u-joint, center driveshaft bearing and more!

 

 

 

 

 

And here's another interesting thing. I've had this muffler for a long time, it was returned by a customer and I bought it to see what the rattles were. I have a muffler one part number off of this on the truck right now that is rattling too, though not as bad. Either way, I'm less than impressed with the construction. Granted, it's a cheap muffler, but still. The interior isn't welded, it's pressed. There are four little dimples that hold the tubes in. And where did these rust flaky chunks come from? It's never been on a vehicle. Came in the box that way. So now the question is whether to cut a flap in the current muffler and see how much shit drops out, and then if I really want to weld up the flap upside down with shit dropping on me.

And I'm listening to Frank Zappa "Titties and Beer" right now, fucking funny as hell!

 

[HRH]

So Buddy and I were talking about the rust issue. While this muffler didn't look put on, there may have been a pipe slid into one of the ends. We were trying to figure out how those shards got there, and I mentioned my muffler didn't rattle at first and the piping was rusting. And of course Buddy said, I'll bet your pipe rusted out, and dropped shards into the muffler, which is why it's rattling!

 

Ah-hah! So even though whoever returned it originally because of "rattling" probably had the same thing happen, and then decided it wasn't worth the money and took it back.

 

Anyway, I may just end up cutting it open. Really I just need a whole new exhaust, but that's not going to happen before Canby.