Sneider or Isky Cam

[pl521sss]

We're about 80% done with L18 engine rebuild.

Cylinder head came back with camshaft almost done according to the machinist. We have no choice but to replace it now with another stock cam or after market.

It's a 219 cylinder head with new exhaust valves, valves seats and seals.

I figure it's another $400 on the cam replacement with new rockers.

 

Should we stick with stock working cam from another engine or go with a after market cam.

 

Secondly, what set Sneider or Isky better from each other or is it just preference. Going for a mild cam that can be daily driven.

 

This was suppose to be a low budget engine rebuild and ending up almost $1k when it's done.

[phatdave]

Probably depends on what you want it to do.

 

HAINZ....pipe in here, this is where you shine you crazy diamond.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Mr-auto-parts.com has rockers for 13$ apc maybe buy 2 sets as nissan wants 26$ apc

 

a cam works best of more carbs but I have run them ok with a DGV(a 460lift Schneider) I thought this should have come stock.

The Isky 475 is OK also.

 

what one can do is buy the Nissanmotorsport springs and use a stock outer and motorsport inner spring so its not that much tension on the cam if truely a daily long term driver. or vise versa ,outer motorsport spring and stock inner spring but new retainers will have to be bought and lash pads.

Or buy the whole isky kit. But I get the nissan stuff

also when buying the Nissan spring they will come as a INNER and OUTER but youll only use one so the other spring can be used for another motor

 

remember the cams size you pick will ALL be the same price.

 

so if you want to keep the cost low you put the stock cam back in with the rockers that was with it in the exact same spot it cam from.

 

also when putting a cam in these motors dont expect a 1HP increase for every 1$ spent. It takes alot to make these motors go fast but over a stock L16 you WILL notice a difference. Cams work best with sidedrafts.

 

other people may have other ideas on cams but this is pretty much the basic intro level cam that will work. Remember once done you can alway put it on a L20 b or make a LZ hybrid sice the cam is done already.

 

here are photos of a U67 head with a Schneider 460lift ,Outstock spring with Motorsport INNER.

other photo is to show how to ink the rockers so the wear is in the middle. If one side or the other you swap motorsport lash pads(if aftermarket cam)

the 620.com has some part#s listed so ck there also.

[hang_510]

I figure it's another $400 on the cam replacement with new rockers.

 

Secondly, what set Sneider or Isky better from each other or is it just preference.

 

This was suppose to be a low budget engine rebuild and ending up almost $1k when it's done.

thats about what i spent on my 'low budget' build, and still counting :rolleyes:

 

i went with the isky, based on price alone.

i ended up w/ a new cam! not a regrind :sneaky:

[pl521sss]

So what's the difference between regrind and new cam?

 

If they offer complete kit then that will prevent us from doing research on what is the correct springs, valve lash......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

thats about what i spent on my 'low budget' build, and still counting :rolleyes:

 

i went with the isky, based on price alone.

i ended up w/ a new cam! not a regrind :sneaky:

[69FJWagon]

So what's the difference between regrind and new cam?

 

If they offer complete kit then that will prevent us from doing research on what is the correct springs, valve lash......

 

A regrind is fine it just cuts into the base circle of the cam a little and a new cam is cut from a new piece of metal... you can get a regrind from Troy or Elgin cams in redwood city I think??? about $150-200 and they do reharden them. depending on how big you go with the cam you can use stock valve springs but you have to get some lash caps to get your Valve lash correct.

[hang_510]

about $125 :D

regrinds done right are as good.

they didnt tell me to send my 'core' in and just sent a new instead(by mistake) :D for the price of a regrind.

 

... about $150-200 and they do reharden them.

[banzai510(hainz)]

http://www.spannerfodder.com/the_works_escorts-generic-image.php?imageName=images/the_works_escorts/pinto/pinto-rocker-ratios.gif

 

good information works with a L motor

 

PS a regrind will require bigger lash pads. due to the back side of the lobe is cut

 

In a Cam kit they give the best guess size lash pads based on a stock uncut head.

 

remember this is a best guess situation if the machinest cut one valve seat deeper then another or the valve stems are not matching across the head , they have to be close to the same ,different size lash pads might be needed. Usually you can fudge it abit ,Long as the wipe pattern is close to the middle youll be fine.

 

If a head has a 1.50 in one and a 190 in another you know they was a bad machinist ofr something was wrong somewhere.

 

I have a set of 150-200 pads

[pl521sss]

ohh boy

I dont' have enough knowledge to challenge the machinist work.

We've been dealing with the same shop and been happy with other work so far besides that they take their time.

First machinist same shop said cam is good, second machinist (veteranolder guy) said it's not going to last. Is it a difference of opinion on both machinist?

 

Should we get the cam first then take it back to the machinist and asked the correct lash pads to work with the new cam?

Or just get assortment of lash pads anyway in case...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.spannerfodder.com/the_works_escorts-generic-image.php?imageName=images/the_works_escorts/pinto/pinto-rocker-ratios.gif

 

good information works with a L motor

 

PS a regrind will require bigger lash pads. due to the back side of the lobe is cut

 

In a Cam kit they give the best guess size lash pads based on a stock uncut head.

 

remember this is a best guess situation if the machinest cut one valve seat deeper then another or the valve stems are not matching across the head , they have to be close to the same ,different size lash pads might be needed. Usually you can fudge it abit ,Long as the wipe pattern is close to the middle youll be fine.

 

If a head has a 1.50 in one and a 190 in another you know they was a bad machinist ofr something was wrong somewhere.

 

I have a set of 150-200 pads

[banzai510(hainz)]

well when you get the DVDs you can watch the whole thing.

 

I always say I want the valve seats all the same and the valve stem height.

ost shops can do this pretty EZ . its when they put NEW valave seats in the can sink one deeper than another (they have to heat the head up) But if using a used head that the seats are faily good just get them reground for the valves. I think this should be OK.

 

as for the cam comment by the machinist I dont know what he means? It wont last?. Buy a new can anyways!!!!!!!!!!

 

all you need to do is make sure the head is good. I assume it was from a running car. with no leaks. ck for straightness. try to keep the cam towers installed. If not ist not to big a deal. You can try to slide a cam in just to make sure it lines up ok. sometimes loosen the cam tower trhen bolt the tower down(10-13pounds only) also be careful as they strip out (helicoil or Keensert will fix it)

[e_racer1999]

RE: regrind vs billet

 

a regrind is beneficial because it uses the same hardened steel in the lobes (obviously), so they are more durable. downside is that the lobe centers cannot be optimized like they can in a new billet cam. but remember with a new billet cam (since our motors are flat tappet) that you need to run an oil treatment that had ZDDP (i recommend STP oil treatment).