what to do with the wagon booty

[Slide-sun]

hey all. I just picked up a 1970 510 wagon and have been looking around and gathering alot of info on things I want to do. the only thing I'm still having a problem with is the ass end. I'm building this car as an all out monster. I'll be ordering the datsport front end conversion for an sr swap. The only thing I'm stumped on is what to do with the back. is there any conversion out there that switches the solid axle and leafs to the independent system or if there something else people are doing. it's just a shame to do all this work up front and kind of forget about the back

[nismo dr]

those pics are too small

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24969-1970-datsun-510-wagon-lowering-options-and-rear-setups/

[Spades]

nope, some people are taking the rear sub-frame and suspension from wrecked 510 sedans and grafting that to the wagon body, but it is ALOT of work and you really have to be good at fabrication and welding. Some others have built custom independent suspension set ups, or are using solid axles with a custom ladder bar suspension set up.

 

There are no kits out there that I am aware of, and IRS on a wagon is a daunting task, especially if you are not good at fabrication or welding.

 

What is the car going to be used for? Street? Strip? AutoX? If the car is street/strip, you can do what I am doing, which is get stiffer leaf springs for the ride height you want the back at(lower or higher than stock), then fabricate traction bars. Run the Hl190 until you blow it up, then find a limited slip rear end out of a junkyard donor car.

 

I plan to run my HL190 solid axle till my NAPS blows it up, then modifying a late 80s to early 90s ford 8.8 limited slip out of a mustang. It is a very close match to the dimensions of the HL190, and the GT's have a limited slip from the factory, and it is a four lug set up and a very common size, so the odds of finding a aftermarket wheel to match the front are quite good. All that is needed from the measurements I took was aftermarket wheels with more backspacing that the front wheels, and welding/re-enforcing the spring perches to change the mounting point.

 

 

whatever you go with, good luck and post pic's of the completed set up when you have it in.

[Slide-sun]

I'm going to be using it as a daily driver and a part time drift car... that's going to be built as a full time race/drift car lol. I actually like the jacked up look with the rear tires poking out the side a bit so I'm not concerd about lowering the rear ride hight, I just want to stiff it up a bit. So you're saying I could use the stock axle... it'll hold the power? ... 400ish

[jesusno2]

400 ish hp LOL! You will bust the twig like axle shafts with any abuse. If I bust a axle in my wagon, I'm gonna call up dutchman and get a set of axles made to use the truck splines and truck 3rd member but drilled to the 4 lug pattern, or possibly swap to a toyota rear diff with 4 lug just for the LSD options gear ratio options. I'm not a huge fan of the 8.8 ford axle much I like the drop out third members for easy gear swaps and cheaper.

[Slide-sun]

well I'm not to concerned with an LSD.... I'm just going to weld it... I know it's not that good for the street but whatever

 

 

[datzenmike]

I'm going to be using it as a daily driver and a part time drift car... that's going to be built as a full time race/drift car lol. I actually like the jacked up look with the rear tires poking out the side a bit so I'm not concerd about lowering the rear ride hight, I just want to stiff it up a bit. So you're saying I could use the stock axle... it'll hold the power? ... 400ish

 

You do NOT want an R-160 IRS if all you're going to do is drift it. You'll have to run a massive sway bar and stiff coils to increase the oversteer. Stick with the H-190 solid axle. Stiffer and easier to make stiffer and much stronger. If street only, get an LSD for it, the diff will last longer and it's safer for you and other people on the street than welding. If full race non street, just weld it.

 

Drift :rolleyes: :bye:

[Slide-sun]

so the stock system that's in my car should be able to handle it then?

 

 

[datzenmike]

Well it won't handle 400 hp at the drag strip with 6K launches but should handle sliding around corners. No open diff will survive one tire fires for long, the side/spider gears are not designed for that. Welding them up, (the poor mans LSD) puts a lot of stress on the sxle splines when going around corners as the outer tire tries to turn more times than the inner one but can't. Usually the inner one spins. A clutch LSD is best, it allows lock up when needed and release when cornering.

[Laecaon]

Can a wagon frame even handle 400hp well without much strengthening?

 

And if this is going to be a drift car, can I have all the trim? :P _{(It happens to all drift cars, they all get crumpled in some way or another, yes even the pros hurt their cars)}

[datzenmike]

Drift :rolleyes: :bye:

 

It's no secret how I feel about drifting. It's rough on cars. 80% (could be higher) of drifters who wreck when not drifting are due to welded differentials.The fact that this is a 510 and not a Honduh hurts even more. Drifting is something best left to a professional.

 

Wannabees take note: Mike's Maxim.... "Skill only takes you so far.... and luck, always, always runs out..."