metalmonkey47 Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 SO I just had my car running to warm it up so I can re-torque the head and adjust the valves, and I noticed it was missing pretty bad after it ran for a while. I pulled the spark plug wire for cylinder 1 so I could go through all the plugs to find which one it was missing on and the engine flat out died. I reconnected it and when i tried to start the car and it just wouldn't fire. I ran around the car for a short bit and found that the fuse for the "Ignition Control" was blown. I replaced it since it was an old ass fuse anyways, and as soon as I turned on the ignition it blew again. I ran through all my wiring and found nothing shorting out. Where should I look next? Also, I noticed that at times, my negative battery cable gets very hot. I always thought this was because it's old and corroded and needs to be replaced. Not sure if this is connected to my problem any. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 SO I just had my car running to warm it up so I can re-torque the head and adjust the valves, and I noticed it was missing pretty bad after it ran for a while. I pulled the spark plug wire for cylinder 1 so I could go through all the plugs to find which one it was missing on and the engine flat out died. I reconnected it and when i tried to start the car and it just wouldn't fire. I ran around the car for a short bit and found that the fuse for the "Ignition Control" was blown. I replaced it since it was an old ass fuse anyways, and as soon as I turned on the ignition it blew again. I ran through all my wiring and found nothing shorting out. Where should I look next? Also, I noticed that at times, my negative battery cable gets very hot. I always thought this was because it's old and corroded and needs to be replaced. Not sure if this is connected to my problem any. Hot ground sounds like a short/parasitic drain to me. Still, clean the battery contacts to be sure. With the car/ignition and everything turned off, doors closed, etc, disconnect the neg cable and use a Amp meter at the 10Amp setting and measure from cable to battery and it should read something like 35mA and nothing more. If you have the clamp on style Amp meter you don't have to disconnect anything, just clip it on the Neg cable. If more than 35mA something is shorting. If you don't have an Amp meter you can use a 12v light bulb, touching the leads between the battery post and the cable. If it lights up you have a short someplace. If it only drains or blows the fuse in the "run" position, I'm thinking ignition system. If it only pops the fuse in the start position, it has to be something with the starter. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 SO I just had my car running to warm it up so I can re-torque the head and adjust the valves, Sorry this isn't a fix but I noticed you said warm the motor to re-torque the head. The valves can be set hot but the head must be torqued when fully cold and the metal has cooled and contracted. The factory specs of torque at 60 ft lbs cold, allows for the expansion of the metal parts. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 Alright I did some screwing around and found that it's my ignition coil (somewhat.) I disconnected the negative side of the coil from the ballast resistor and turned on the ignition and the fuse was fine. What would cause the coil to spontaneously die like this? I'm only assuming it's dead. I suppose I'll have to go buy another one from Autozone. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 Turns out it wasn't the coil. Also tested the ballast resistor with an ammeter and tested a correct .8 ohms. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 Turns out it wasn't the coil. Also tested the ballast resistor with an ammeter and tested a correct .8 ohms. Any ideas? you tested it with an ammeter and got ohms? :blink: Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 you tested it with an ammeter and got ohms? :blink: Sorry, multimeter. Sorry, I've been Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 Won't start? Pull one of the plug leads off and stick an old spark plug (or screw driver) in the end the and ground to the valve cover or hold the screw driver near ground and crank. Got spark??? Yes got spark: Take air filter off and look down carb while pumping throttle by hand. Should see squirt of gas. No gas find out why. No spark: Remove cap and crank motor and watch to see if points open and close. Yes points work but no spark at coil: Check for voltage at + coil terminal with key on. If points work and there is voltage at coil check that dizzy is well grounded. Look for loose electrical connections. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 Won't start? Pull one of the plug leads off and stick an old spark plug (or screw driver) in the end the and ground to the valve cover or hold the screw driver near ground and crank. Got spark??? Yes got spark: Take air filter off and look down carb while pumping throttle by hand. Should see squirt of gas. No gas find out why. No spark: Remove cap and crank motor and watch to see if points open and close. Yes points work but no spark at coil: Check for voltage at + coil terminal with key on. If points work and there is voltage at coil check that dizzy is well grounded. Look for loose electrical connections. lol Mike, you're drunk. It's electronic ignition. no spark because the "Ignition Control" fuse is blowing and theres no grounding out anywhere Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 FAIL!!!! Hahahaha Well ignore the points then. The dizzy has to be very well grounded weather points or EI. Wait... Turns out it wasn't the coil. Also tested the ballast resistor with an ammeter and tested a correct .8 ohms. Any ideas? Ballast resistor???? EI wouldn't have one. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 FAIL!!!! Hahahaha Well ignore the points then. The dizzy has to be very well grounded weather points or EI. LOL I won't tell if you don't. Where is the ground commonly at? Is it a wired ground or a physical ground? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 Check previous post. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) Check previous post. I use an MSD Blaster 3. An MSD tech that I spoke to mentioned that I have to use the resistor on stock ignition system. Edited October 31, 2010 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 But normally it has a Nissan matchbox stock??? Ah yeah it's an after market coil!!! Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 But normally it has a Nissan matchbox stock??? Ah yeah it's an after market coil!!! Yup, I'm pretty confident that the A15 had a stock matchbox dizzy. I didn't even know until I pulled the cap one day to check the points and found it's electronic ignition. SWEET!! But unfortunately, still doesn't solve my fuse problem :( Been through EVERY wire. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 bump?? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 2, 2010 Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 I don't care for the aftermarket stuff much. They weren't designed for use on a Datsun. Even says you have to add a resistor. Try a Nissan coil it works without having to drop the voltage.It it fixes the problem then that.... was the problem. Quote Link to comment
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