boxboy Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 I am changing my u-joints tonight and I have an issue. I have checked and double checked and I know I have the right parts. I have installed them and had to squeeze the heck out of them to get the c-clips in. Now I can't get them to loosen up and move easily. They move, but it takes a little effort. They seem far too tight to me. I have rapped them good with a hammer on the yokes, but to no avail. My last set I sanded the clips a bit, but I was told that was a no-no. What the heck? This isn't my first time changing u's. I've never had trouble before. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Are they quality parts or cheap Chinese knock offs? Ya gits wut you pays fer. Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 might have broke a needle or three Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 A needle might have fallen down when you installed them Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 maybe... I've had a needle drop down but no way would the cap come even close to getting the clip in. Quote Link to comment
boxboy Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Well, here is the story: first I bought u's from NAPA. They were really tight, and to even get the clips to seat, I had to sand a little bit off of each one. It wasn't precise at all, but I didn't see another solution. Folks on this site said thats a no-no, so I bought some Precision 391's from RA. The parts from RA came looking used, one with clips that were really thin while the groove was really wide, and the other had no clips at all. So, unusable (plus tonight I checked the caps and they are too large for the yokes, so they must be the wrong part anyway). So third, I go to Six States and they check and cross check part numbers and sell me some Neapco or something like that they promise are quality, and made in the USA. I put those in, and they also are really tight. I bang around on the yokes for a while and get them a little bit more mobile, throw it in the truck and creep down the road. SCRREEECCHH!! Now what? I've got $80 in u-joints and nothing has improved. So tonight I put the Napa ones back in, since although there may be the slightest bit of play because of the sanded clips (a mm at the most) in them somewhere, I can at least drive under 45 mph without trouble. I ran out of energy, and have quit for the night. I'll put the DL in tomorrow and ponder. I hope you all have some better ideas. Mike, the NAPA joints were $25 each. I think that should be enough to be quality. Bills Datsun swears by Spicer, but I couldn't find them anywhere. I made sure I had all the needle bearings. Now that I have them off again, I can confirm that 100%. I'm pretty frustrated that such a simple thing is becoming so difficult. Anyone want a 1968 520! Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Bills Datsun is shit. Jock/jaque/jackie wtf ever is a crook and an asshole to boot. Try Discount Import Parts (503) 659-7444 1-877-659-7444 they got most of the stuff for my 521 I couldnt get from Nissan Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Checked when I got to work, they are still available from Nissan, but they are pricey $76 each p# 37125-49W25 expensive but I bet they fit like butta Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Use the NAPA ones -- sanding the clips is no problem. Genuine Nissan ones are fitted with various thickness clips anyways. Quote Link to comment
boxboy Posted September 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2010 Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the clips what holds the cap in the correct position? If sanded too much, the cap can move outward until the clip rests against the inside of the yoke. This would allow for the u-joint to move back and forth a bit, and my theory is, cause a vibration. Anyone on board with my theory? I don't know much about Bill's, other than he seemed very knowledgeable to me. He did my uncles engine swap and he is very happy with it. It wasn't cheap though. Are you saying I shouldn't have him do my Kingpins then? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 5, 2010 Report Share Posted September 5, 2010 Yes, you are right. So don't sand it too much. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 5, 2010 Report Share Posted September 5, 2010 Just a thought but has the drive shaft or the yoke been dropped, forcing the ends closer together??? Maybe hammered on to remove the old ones? They should be hit well down on the 'meaty' part to shock them out. . Quote Link to comment
boxboy Posted September 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2010 That is a thought I had as well, but they are equally as tight on all four yokes. So I thought perhaps that it wasn't as random as dropping it on one end and bending it. Wondering if I may just have to take it to a drive-line shop and have it tuned up. I could just take them the U's and the line and tell them to fix it. Anyone know how spendy that might be? Quote Link to comment
650savag Posted September 6, 2010 Report Share Posted September 6, 2010 I may have been doing it wrong but so far I haven't had a vibration problem. I have replaced the u-joints in both of my trucks and I use the 391's from O'Reileys. I usually grind both ends of the clips so they are tapered where they start into the grooves. They start easier and snap on down into the grooves when they are tapered a bit. They are still the full width most of the way around and so they don't allow for any exessive play or vibration. I know that removing a small amount of metal without rebalancing the shaft could cause some vibration from a shaft that is not perfectly balanced but so far I haven't had a problem. "knock-on-wood" Quote Link to comment
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