'77 620 pulls to the left when braking

[Icoblue]

Hey guys, new member here, recently picked up a '77 Bulletside 620 and already loving it, but it needs some love. I'll post pics later.

 

Right now, the largest problem with the truck is that it pulls to the left when braking. I'm pretty sure I've figured out why, but I still have a problem. My experience with drum brakes is very limited (I don't ever get a vehicle with them unless I have to). I know that the shoes have a leading and a trailing edge for forward rotation, my question is which one is which on the 620's? I pulled both front wheels and drums to diagnose my braking issue, and behold! the shoe setup doesn't match from side to side! The shoes have one narrower end and one full width flat end. On the driver's side, they are pointed narrow to wide. On the passenger side, both narrow ends are facing each other at the wheel cylinder.

 

Now, obviously, the 2 narrow ends shouldn't point at each other, but now I can't be sure that the guy who put these shoes on knew his ass from a hole in the ground! So, rather than just making the passenger side look like the driver's side, I'm trying to figure out the EXACT setup of these shoes so I can put them on with the correct orientation. I'm running out the door in a minute, but I'll take some pics and post them when I get back. Any pics of a proper configuration would be helpful.

 

Thanks!

[Icoblue]

I took a couple pics, sorry for the poor lighting on the passenger side, but I've outlined the narrow portions of the shoes so you can see what I'm talking about.

 

 

[datzenmike]

By my diagram the driver's side is correct...

 

The pass side needs the rear shoe turned up side down and installed...

 

This should correct for forward turning wheels.

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[Icoblue]

Thanks for the help. If it's digital, would you mind posting or emailing me that diagram so I can add it to my quickly growing collection?

 

It's not really related, but how can I identify my carb? I have a 77 with an L16, which if I am not very much mistaken means that it isn't the original motor. No telling what may be on there. Here's a couple pics of the carb. This is also my first carbeurated vehicle, so I really have no idea what I'm looking at, other than the basic workings of a carb. Is there a thread somewhere about how to identify parts?

 

 

[datzenmike]

Looks like an L20B carb. Follow the red wire... does it connect to something on the back of the carb? If so that's the idle cut and I don't think the L16 had them.

[denveratsun]

I don't believe the L16 did. At least mine didnt...it's a 1971 though :unsure:

[datsunaholic]

'73 L16s had the idle cut, but the metal float bowl cover IDs that as a L20B carb. The L16 and L18 carbs all had full glass faces. That looks mostly like the stock '77 L20B carb, with some real mickey-mouse work done to make the original '77 manifolds work (and a homemade throttle cable bracket attached where the EGR manifold was supposed to be)

[Icoblue]

Hey thanks for all the help, guys. I kinda figured this carb didn't belong to this motor, and it's always nice hearing "mickey mouse" in reference to a vehicle you just bought. Lol. Regarding the red wire for the idle cut, there's another wire, white, that's cut, even though the harness has a matching wire. Is this emissions? Do I need it?

 

Anyway, I got the shoes switched, it isn't pulling anymore, but the brakes aren't so great. I picked up a great deal on craigslist and got 2 new wheel cylinders, a reman brake master cylinder, 4 new front wheel seals and 2 clutch slave cylinder rebuild kits all for $28 shipped. When I pull the motor, I'm going to also pull the master cylinder and replace it, check the vacuum booster, flush all the hard lines, add new DOT4 fluid and bleed.

 

I've gotten everything under the hood disconnected in preparation for pulling the motor this weekend, I just have to drain and disconnect the trans, then I'll be ready to pull the whole deal. It looks like the center tire rod is going to have to come out to pull the motor and trans a unit. Anyone know if that is so?

 

I'm taking pics during the project so you guys can see the progress, if you guys have comments or suggestions, they're always welcome.

 

Also, if a mod wants to move this thread somewhere it may better belong?

[datsunaholic]

There were 3 wires on the carb- choke heater, idle cut solenoid, and BCDD cut solenoid. The BCDD is an emissions thing, being that I've for the most part eliminated Hitachi carbs from what I have I don't recall any difference in how it ran with it connected or not.

 

You shouldn't have to remove any suspension parts to pull the engine. It works best with a tilt device though, as you have to get the assembly to about 50 degrees to get it out. Pulling the center brace and the tie rod makes it slightly easier, but you can gain some clearance by simply turning the steering wheel