CharlieW Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 WOOOOHOOOOO.....I actually made it to work this morning.....it will be put up on the alignment rack at work today and the torsion bars are gonna get twisted on a little bit. Thanks for all the input...its like this morning was the big test and it passed.....engine still stumbles, more like a slight hesitation, but it made it so I am happy. Quote Link to comment
CharlieW Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 So, we got the truck on the alignment rack a little earlier and dropped the front about 3" via torsion bars. The right rear has a saggy spring thus it is about half an inch lower than the driver side. Does anyone around have a set of leafs layin around they don't need anymore? By the way, I will put up pics tonight. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 13, 2010 Report Share Posted August 13, 2010 what year is your Datsun? and what size motor? i have a 1982 Datsun 2.2L 4-cylender and i'm running straight pipes right behind the cab, it gives it a nice rumble but isn't to loud where you will get pulled over for it i'm running about 175HP and the motor i have max's out at about 375HP lots to go tword but stock the motor had 105HP so i've managed to add about 70HP to mine, taking the muffler off added about 15 more by its self and i haven't noticed any change in the mileage im getting in it, i have it lowered 3 inches front and back and it does look good also adding 17" rims and low profile tires makes in look even better 175hp Z22????? 375hp??? this the same Z22 motor???? Show me a dyno sheets on that. Pictures too!!! What was done to it? Same gas mileage? unlikely. Quote Link to comment
CharlieW Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 ...so the carb is.....in a half million pieces....and totally cleaned now...Should be reinstalling tonight....will let yall know how it drives afterward....I guess I should fill you in on the latest...the day I posted that I drove the truck to work, it sputtered a lot, but idled great. The following day, it wouldn't idle worth a crap but didn't sputter at all under a load....totally weird. So that is what drove me to remove and rebuild the carb, which is almost done. I have a detailed write up of the carb removal with pics that I will post in another thread. I have yet to make a rebuild thread. I will next time. I was trying so hard to concentrate on all of the little pieces and I didn't want to make any mistakes. I may be able to write a how-to on the rebuild from memory. Not sure yet. Quote Link to comment
CharlieW Posted August 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 ...ok so I reinstalled the carb last night....very simple....especially with the vacuum line delete. The mixture screw is 2.5 turns out, and I adjusted the idle screw to get the idle down. When I was buttoning everything up before the initial start, I looked over towards the distributor and noticed that the wire to the vacuum advance was pulled off of the terminal. It looks as if the wire had gotten caught by the joint/knuckle down between the steering shaft and the steering gearbox. Also down there was the harness that housed the three wires from the ignition coil area down to the distributor, although those wires were not disconnected. So, I fixed those and then noticed that the hose....that I just replaced...from the vacuum advance over to the little metal tube that runs across the front of the engine to the carb....that hose was torn almost in-half right where it meets the end of that metal tube. That is very interesting to me as I can't figure out how it happened. Oh well, after those repairs and re-routing a couple other wires, I fired it up. The idle was extremely high, so I turned the idle screw down a bit. This seemed to fix that problem although I have found that the idle screw is EXTREMELY sensitive. I drove it around the block a bit last night and it ran great....it just hesitates....VERY slightly when you mat the accelerator pedal....then picks up just fine. After it got to operating temperature, I shut it off and restarted about 5 minutes later. The idle seemed to come down quite nicely. So on to this morning, I go outside to start the truck and as soon as I hit the ignition, the truck started immediately...yay...but it idled extremely high again. As soon as the choke cut off, the idle came down a little, then it came down again to where I adjusted it last night, once it was at operating temperature. Any ideas why it would idle abnormally high on a cold startup? Lemme know what you think. Otherwise, it ran great over my 8 mile journey to work. No hesitations, sputters, or anything like that....oh and I sincerely appreciate all the help that has gotten me this far.....Thanks so much. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 Cold start up should be 1,800-2,300. If very cold, the idle doesn't come down right away if you touch the gas but does in warmer weather. This is normal choke function. The vacuum lines don't last forever and will crack from flexing for almost 30 years. Quote Link to comment
CharlieW Posted September 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Not trying to be rude or anything of the sort, but I posted that the vacuum hose was just replaced....which is why I wondered why it would be torn....and the idle was WAY high....like 5000 give or take....any ideas Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 High idle is adjustable when the choke is on. Best thing is to remove the carb to get at the adjustment screw. You set the choke fast idle on the first step and adjust screw so the primary is... Quote Link to comment
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