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found some motors


lil89ram50

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hey guys i found a z20 and a z22s today! there in my local shut down junk yard. there in storage, but i know the guy so he let me go wander and i found these :) i cant remember which one was which but i know one was 4 plugs and one was eight and one was a fuel enjected and one was carbed... are these worth anything? they were pickled when pulled. and were always covered. how hard to put in a dime? its already got the 5 speed, so i just need to switch to a z series bell right? and what about wiring? and how much more power would it be over a good running l?

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I'll give you a couple of random thoughts, and if I say anything too inaccurate, I count on eagle-eyed Ratsuners to correct me. The general rap on the Z20/Z22 engines is the heads don't flow well (small ports I think), so don't have much performance potential. I've always suspected if you just want a nice daily driver engine, either might be fine, although you get into the different tilt of the engine and bell housing. I'm not sure about motor mounts, if there is a bolt-in combination, or hack n weld is needed. For the FI engine, you need the ECU, wiring harness, and all the sensors and bits. If it is just a bare engine, parts will have to be found.

 

The good news though, the blocks, cranks, and maybe flywheels are more or less interchangeable will L20b engines. I believe the dipstick is on the wrong side when you put an L head and manifolds on a Z block, but can be drilled and mounted on the correct side. I think you need an L front cover, oil pan, and oil pickup if you are sticking it in a 510. There were two series Z20 engine (I think) and one had the long connecting rods some guys want. I'm hoping someone will fill in details on that, since I'm really hazy on that subject. The Z22 will give you more displacement than an L20, and with a good L head is supposed to be a nice combo.

 

So I guess I'm saying you may have found a couple of nice blocks and cranks to use if you can find L heads and pieces to go with them. Price will decide if it worth the extra messing around to modify them. I don't know how common L engines are there in ND. If you bought one of these engines and had to have an L head, front cover, etc shipped to you, the cost wouldn't be too bad. Shipping on a complete L engine would be a lot more. I think buying one or both of these engines has real potential, as long as you are willing to mess around a bit more, compared with a straight L engine. What are you sticking the engine in? Something with an L16 in it?

 

Len

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thanks hang, i have been looking at thet for a while. but i am having some problems finding people who have actually done these... i think this is the one i want to build. as i can have all these parts... any one actually build this motor before? who? and where can i see the pics at?

 

Big Bore 2.3L

KA24 pistons into a bored Z20/Z22/L20B block. The small 2.8cc dish area of the KA24 pistons helps to preserve compression ratio even with the low piston deck height. Compression ratio with a open chambered U67 head is 9.9:1 or use dished Z24 pistons and peanut chambered head for 8.9:1 compression ratio.

Parts: Z22 crank, KA24 pistons, Z22S/ L20B rods in a +2mm bored Z22 block or +4mm Z20/L20B block.

s/2+r+p= 92/2+145.9+34.0= 225.9 mm

piston deck height: -1.55mm below deck

 

so i would have to buy that z22 motor, and get an l20 block and u67 head. also ka24 pistons

 

please correct me if i am wrong...but this is how i'd like to do this, and works according to this

 

~ take z22 crank and put into l20b block, with l20b rods, and ka24 pistons, and a u67 head

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so i would have to buy that z22 motor, and get an l20 block and u67 head. also ka24 pistons

 

please correct me if i am wrong...but this is how i'd like to do this, and works according to this

 

~ take z22 crank and put into l20b block, with l20b rods, and ka24 pistons, and a u67 head

 

I would take the Z22 block and bore it 2mm over rather than the L20B block 4mm over. All you need from the L20B is the timing gear, cover and dizzy. You don't even need the L20B rods, the Z22 are the same size.

 

Then it's the KA24E pistons. Car KAs use fully floating rods with bronze inserts pressed into the rod ends and an oil hole. You may have to use the KA pin for proper length in the piston. I haven't measured the pin thickness to see if it is compatible for a press fit on the Z22 rods. Probably is. The truck KAs do use press in pins on their pistons.

 

 

Floating KA24E rod

720stuffKA24Epistonrod007Large.jpg

 

KA24E and Z22 pistons with rod and pin comparison.

pistons001Large.jpg

 

Fully floating rods would be desirable. Perhaps the pin could be turned down in the center where the rod sits on it and pressed on. The pistons on fully floating rods, are held on with cir clips in the pin ends. The rod end would need an oil hole drilled in the end for splash oiling of the pin, just like in the KA.

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