clutch not disengaging?

[ronnny]

Last week the truck drove fine. Two nights ago get in to go to work and like does not want to go in gear and the pedal is soft. Once you start it seems to do good. feels like getting worse. there is no leaks and not low on fluid. to me i think it is the master cylinder for the clutch leaking back by. It is not the clutch for it pulls just fine. How would you tell the difference between the master cylinder or the slave cylinder going bad. Niether leaking any fluid. almost seems to me it would have to be the master cylinder. What are others thoughts on this?

 

thanks Ronny

[Master-O-Turbonics]

Last week the truck drove fine. Two nights ago get in to go to work and like does not want to go in gear and the pedal is soft. Once you start it seems to do good. feels like getting worse. there is no leaks and not low on fluid. to me i think it is the master cylinder for the clutch leaking back by. It is not the clutch for it pulls just fine. How would you tell the difference between the master cylinder or the slave cylinder going bad. Niether leaking any fluid. almost seems to me it would have to be the master cylinder. What are others thoughts on this?

 

thanks Ronny

 

How many miles on the clutch?

Throwout bearing?

[ronnny]

How many miles on the clutch?

Throwout bearing?

 

Once it is in gear it goes like always. It pulls real good and never slips. If it starts to feel like it engages you know it. It feels like it does not disegage enough to be put in gear. The bearing or nothing seems to sound or rattle. Once going you are fine unless down shifting to first. When stopped it is the same putting into any gear. Has only about 130k on it. I have had cars that the clutch went out all at once and would not pull. this is not like that though. seems to me if it were the slave cylinder it would leak because just a piston to move back and forth as it is pushed. So would have to be the master cylinder. by the way 84 720.

[banzai510(hainz)]

bleed the clutch first.

Go to the slave and bleed it like brakes.

 

Now I want u to have soembody push the clutch IN and look to see if the slave cylinder is is moving the clutch arm. If yes thats good.

Now go to the Master clyinder and push the clutch in again see if bubbles come out of the master where you fill it. If theres bubbles then is blowing or sucking air IN. Needs replacing. But if NO bubbles the slave could be doing the same thing . But you dont really know cause you can see the air bubbles,unless you change it and see what happens. I had this happen when I rebuilt a slave and it would work but after a weak I couldnt get in gear. It would suck in air. NO leaks!!!!!!!

 

 

Bleed clutch first. If its OK then your fine. But if comes back after a few days or weeks then its a AIR issue if no fluid loss.

[D@tsuks]

To check if the clutch master is bad check that resevoir has fluid first then clamp rubber line at slave, they make special clamps to do this but you can use vise grips it doesn't take to much pressure so don't go ripping the hose. Press the pedal if it feels hard again then your master is good and slaves bad, if pedal feels spongy then masters bad. If your fluid looks like nestley quick then I would just replace them both or rebuild them if your on a budget. Slave runs 20 buks at kragen 30 to 80 buks depending on brand.

 

 

[ronnny]

Ok first i went and looked to see and the slave cylinder was moving an inch or so. took off the cap to the master cylinder and have tiny bubbles rising. got the wife to operate the pedal and bled the slave cylinder came out fast but got a better pedal feel but not good. It will go in gear without grinding or such and is driveable. Put a pair of vise grips on the hose and after the free play in the pedal it is hard.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Tiny bubbles(Don Ho)

If it bubbles all the time IM thinking its the master if this happens again.

Maybe its fixed.

I had this happen to my brakes. Tryin gto bleed them. I had a bad wheel cylinder then I was bleeding the brakes and the brakes would not work. Then come to find out the master had just gone bad and was blowing bubbles. What often happen is then one bleeds a old master there is a slight edge in the cylinder that happens over years of use. then when you go to bleed the system the rubber O ring or seal will catch that edge and the seal goes bad cause your using full movement of the master cylinder piston.

If your a High roller in Ga. Just buy new ones. If taiwan made buy 2 cause I dont get more than 5 years out of them

[ronnny]

I think i will go buy the slave cylinder first and change it when i get to it. Just drive one of the other cars for a few days. At work they say will not have a day off this weekend so not like a few dollars for parts is a problem. If it were i would just take the parts off my 81 parts truck. then again i could just do that since i have time anyway. All that worked good on the parts truck when it was my daily ride. But after sittin it might have went bad like wheel cylinders do a bit of the time.

 

thanks for the input yall and think i will start with the slave cylinder.

[ronnny]

Ok just to let yall know that replied. My son came over and i watched him change the slave cylinder off of my 81 truck. We bled a lot of fluid through the line to get a lot of the dark fluid out. the slave cylinder off of my parts truck cleaned up to look like new and works real well. It is strange thoough now to have the clutch engage and not at the top of the pedal travel instead of at the bottom. But thanks a lot for the help and advice. My boss does care work to and said a shop will always change both to keep it from coming back a bad work.

[hang_510]

It is strange thoough now to have the clutch engage and not at the top of the pedal travel instead of at the bottom.

that can (and should) be adjusted.

[MicroMachinery]

My boss does care work to and said a shop will always change both to keep it from coming back a bad work.

 

:huh: Come again?