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Whats wrong here?


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I got up today and decided "fuck it I wanna drive my car." My cars been immobile for a month or so because of ongoing projects with the throttle, paint, dash, etc. So I yanked out the Mazda dash cap because that whole project is fucked. dry.gif I got my gauges in and such and hooked everything up and decided I wanted to check all my lights to make sure they worked. (Why not? Just to be safe right?) Low and behold, I hit my brakes and no brake lights. I turned on my running lights and their okay. WTF right? I hit my turn signals and flashers which are a NO GO. My headlights are out too. angry.gif Naturally, I checked the fuses which all checked out. Then, checked for 12volts at the source which is a negative.

 

Now I'm thinking, what the hell? I didn't touch any of this and it was working when it was parked, so why the hell is it dead now? There's no reason as to why it wouldn't work.

 

I've checked all of the obvious places. My question is, where do I go next?

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I got up today and decided "fuck it...

 

There's no reason as to why it wouldn't work.

 

I've checked all of the obvious places. My question is, where do I go next?

no + @ the source could be the grounds as well.

 

1 mo is plenty of time for an already dirty contact to stop flow...

 

swap out the fuses too and check the continuity of the fuses, they can/do melt from poor connections

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Replaced all the fuses. Checked and I DO have 12volts at the brake light switch. When you press down the brake pedal, it looses 12 volts all together.

 

I didn't notice any contacts that are dirty, but tomorrow afternoon I'll go through em all.

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So, NOW I have brake lights, which randomly started working after removing the fuse box. Which leads me to believe the terminals are corroded keeping me from getting a good connection.

 

I cleaned em up and still have no turnsignals/hazards or headlights. But I do have tail lights.

 

Does anyone know where the headlights are fused at? They don't seemed to be fused through the fuse box. dry.gif Even the manual isn't much help here.

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... lights, which randomly started working

 

Even the manual isn't much help here.

welcome to 30yo electronic gremlins :ph34r:

 

often the F spades in the housing are corroded too (there is an expensive tool to properly remove then).

sometimes they just turn to powder :blink:

i use a thin file to clean em, then crush em down a bit to make better contact.

 

 

not familiar w/the 310 fusebox layout, but the 510 uses 2 different circuits for HL and TL.

 

i just had to re-solder 3 wires to the bottom of my HL relay.

1 was broken off, 1 had 2 wire strands and the other had 5 :rolleyes:

but now all of them work :)

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I'll go take pictures in the morning to get a better idea what I'm workin with here.

 

I'm pretty confident at this point that the problem lies with the fuse box, mainly because it acts as if there is a bad connection, and the fuse box is the only thing they have in common.

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Fixed it!! The fuses were getting a bad connection at the box. Apparently, the headlights are fused through the turn signals. Kinda weird.blink.gif

 

I just wrapped the fuse in 800grit sand paper, and put the fuse in. Then twisted it and slid it back and forth and ta daaaa!!

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Ever try the Kool Aid trick? 1 pack non-colored Kool Aid in about a quart of water. Submerge the fuse box in it (without the fuses) for about a day. Rinse with little degreaser then water. Spray WD40 over the whole thing and reinstall. Soak the plugs on the harness too. My fuse block came out looking new.

 

-B

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The citric acid does it. We used to use US Navy "Bug juice" when I was in the service to clean brass firefighting equipment and deck drains. The coloring didn't hurt- just don't add sugar.

 

Good to know it works man cool.gif It sounds really cool. I'll have to do a write up if I have time. I'm sure other people would LOVE to have that.

 

Thanks for the info!

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