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Crank the bars


Dropmaster

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I know it seems like common sense but the first time I did it it didnt change anything until I realized that on top under the 30 plus years of grease and grime is two nuts loosen the jam nut and hold the bottom nut while turning the adjuster...

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This is the anchor arm:

rebuild70.jpg

 

The anchor bolt holds a half moon shaped anchor pivot against the bottom of the anchor arm. On top, next is the round bottomed anchor adjusting seat followed by the nut and lock nut on top.

 

 

You may find that you run out of threads before lowering as far as you want. If this is the case the torsion bar can be removed and rotated counter clockwise and re-installed. (clock wise on the other side) This will move it upwards like the one on the far right and allow more adjustment on the anchor bolt. You may at this point be so low that the rubber bump stop will need to be trimmed or removed. Removal is not really a good idea.

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This is the anchor arm:

rebuild70.jpg

 

The anchor bolt holds a half moon shaped anchor pivot against the bottom of the anchor arm. On top, next is the round bottomed anchor adjusting seat followed by the nut and lock nut on top.

 

 

You may find that you run out of threads before lowering as far as you want. If this is the case the torsion bar can be removed and rotated counter clockwise and re-installed. (clock wise on the other side) This will move it upwards like the one on the far right and allow more adjustment on the anchor bolt. You may at this point be so low that the rubber bump stop will need to be trimmed or removed. Removal is not really a good idea.

 

those pics are awesome for the comparison of a torsion bar that has been turned versus one that hasnt

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