Chingon 510 Posted March 15, 2010 Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 hey guys does anyone know of a good carb shop here in so cal? if so hit me up asap tnkx Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted March 15, 2010 Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 What exactly are you trying to do, rebuild? If so, it's not worth it. Carb shops are getting harder to come by because it's not worth rebuilding, unless you do it and that becomes a hit and miss for it tor work right. If you have a daily driver try a 32/36 weber. Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 A friend of mine has one in Riverside. I'll try to find out the # for ya. But I think racerX has the better idea. Unless your doing a full resto and you have to have stock. Quote Link to comment
Chingon 510 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 well im trying to do a daily driver i have a webber now but idk wat series it its the thing is the my car is bogging under acceleration. well only wen in 1to 2k rpm after that its ok. but kinda weird wen i jump on the freeway after like 50mph it starves for fuel. an after i have no power wats so ever. help plz ill get pics of my engine asap Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 Was this fine before? If yes them I assume the mechanical timming of the car is good. If moto was taken apart then mayeb it was put together wrong. Off a tooth on oil pump(cause distributor to be off) or timming chain(moves power ). time it. try a OLD VW shop. they know webers EZ. olddatsuns.com or here has a weber basic adjustment. in case your mixture is off and you got the speed screw cranked all the way in Quote Link to comment
Chingon 510 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 TNKX FOR THE HELP GUYS. WELL THE ENGINE IS A COMPLETE REBUILD ENGINE. WITH TRANS. IM GUESSING I GUESSING IT WAS PUT BACK RIGHT. UMM BUT I KNOW ITS FUEL STARVATION BECAUSE. ITS ONLY HAPENDS AT A CERTAIN SPEED. WEN DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY IT HAPPENDS BUT IN THE STREETS ITS FINE? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 Well u say Bogging under 2k rpms I would look inside carb and cycle the linkage You should see gas being squired in there everytime you cycle on the down stroke. That is the accell pump on the side of carb.Is squirts extra gas when the butterfly opens up. Should be a nice stream of gas. Have you used a timming light on this???????? If not please do so and time it around 7BTDC to say 12BTDC. try that and see waht happens. A top end cutting out can be dirty fuel filter. float bowl running out of gas.(needle valve in carb sticky) Cam timming off a tooth on chain or your oil pump off a tooth. Youll see this with the timming light. I seen also automatic electric choke wire not hook up thuse causing it to cut out as the plate is blocking the airflow olddatsuns.com read the tech section!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Chingon 510 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 TNKX FOR THE INFO BRO ILL GET ON IT ASAP TNKX Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Yep...always start with a base setting. Make sure your timing is right on, maybe 2 degrees beyond factory setting or till it pings when you take off or on freeway. I think I finally got mine situated, I could be off with 11.25 projection or I have a different pedastal. It's running okay and does not bog. At any rate, I have an L18 and timing is about 14, calls for 12 btdc, I tried at 5, which is another setting for L18 but too retard. Not sure what engine you have, L16, L18 or L20, find out what timing is. When you do check timing, point the light when you are leaning from the passenger fender, you can see it better/accurate. If you don't have a timing light, may want to invest in a dig. one, like from Kragens or Sears or get one that has a dial on the back so that you can also check for vacuum advance. This is not static timing. Once this is done and timing is okay, now check condition and setting of carb. Meaning vacuum leaks?, psray carb cleaner around carb, intake area, you'll know when you have a vacuum leak, your RPM will climb. Now you can adjust your carb, see weber adjustment on this site. Your car should warm when you do adjust. Good luck. Quote Link to comment
Chingon 510 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 tnkx racer good info. i have a L16, my car idles fine. i havent had a chance to check timing but will do so soon.my car runs fine its only wen i drive for a while or on the freeway Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 changing spark plug and timing is always first....then check for vacuum leaks prior to doing carb tuning. You may also want to get a vacuum gauge to help you tune carb, this helps...hook up vacuum gauge to intake vacuum, not carb. Basically once the car has been timed, new plugs, you hook up the vacuum gauge and max. vacuum, then turn the idle mixture in maybe 1/4 of a turn. Just read the how to tune your weber section. And always right down your final setting. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 BTw the reason why I say not worth rebuidling the carb or taking it to a shopo is because awhile back, I was going to have Piere manfold rebuild my tired 32/36 weber and they said about $200..for about $100 more I can get a new one. So I just bought new one. Quote Link to comment
datsun65 Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 In case you do wish to have the carb rebuilt, I had very good luck having my 1961 Datsun Carb rebuilt by: http://sdcarb.com/ San Diego Carburetor & Fuel (619) 265-2400 - 6622 University Ave, San Diego, CA Quote Link to comment
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