Runslikeapenguin Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 1979 620 with L20B purchased it, carb took a shit, went to blow out main jets and ended up taking off a shit ton of stuff. So i raged and quit. Ended up buying an Offenhauser manifold from a friend, buying a Spanish 32/36 weber kit and stripped every last piece of non necessary equipment off of the car. I'm just finishing the work up to get it back on the road. I've collected almost everything i need ( think) and I've stripped everything i can. I have a few small questions 1. The steel sleeves in my exhaust, can these be removed easily? or is it to much to screw with if the head is still on the car. 2. The second fuel line is just a return right? or a vent? Can i just block it off? 3. The big steel tube coming out of the right side of the block is just a crank case vent right? If i block it off will the PCV valve on the valve cover be enough to handle the pressure? I really hope i can get this thing sorted out soon. I think i pulled close to 60+lbs of useless shit off this engine. Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Why don't you let us know what you are talking about. Like vehicle and engine to start with. :blink: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I've collected almost everything i need ( think) and I've stripped everything i can. I have a few small questions 1. The steel sleeves in my exhaust, can these be removed easily? or is it to much to screw with if the head is still on the car. 2. The second fuel line is just a return right? or a vent? Can i just block it off? 3. The big steel tube coming out of the right side of the block is just a crank case vent right? If i block it off will the PCV valve on the valve cover be enough to handle the pressure? I really hope i can get this thing sorted out soon. I think i pulled close to 60+lbs of useless shit off this engine. They can't be removed without removing the valves. The second line is a return line. L20B run hot so Nissan engineers put a restriction in the return so there would be some pressure in the carb line. The purpose was to circulate cool gas from the tank so there was less chance of it boiling from extreme under hood temperatures. Leave it hooked up or the car will leve you stranded when it won't start hot. The pipe from the block goes to the PCV valve on the intake below the carb. Leave it alone to do it's job. In other words if you don't know what it's for or how it works don't mess with it. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 (3.) Correct , pressure has to go somewhere , and vented or re-used. You can install a K&N filter on it to bypass the hose ( more of a racing application from what I understand , but IDK for sure ? ) , or replace hose with a new one and install a BRAND NEW PCV valve if you do not know the condition or cant get unstuck/sealed. ( PCV valve gets clogged on Subaru's and starts to push out seals typically , seen it happen quite a bit on suby's. ) the block pressure NEEDS TO VENT SOMEWHERE on the bottom end as well as the top , whatever you do don't cap it off. ;) Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 if you don't know what it's for or how it works don't mess with it. Wise words , and should be installed on a vinyl sticker under every hood of every vehicle made in the world :cool: :D ( not like we haven't all been tempted at some point , extra parts or spares I see a bit differently :rofl: ) Quote Link to comment
Runslikeapenguin Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Why don't you let us know what you are talking about. Like vehicle and engine to start with. :blink: You're right. I should have. 1979 620 with L20B purchased it, carb took a shit, went to blow out main jets and ended up taking off a shit ton of stuff. So i raged and quit. Ended up buying an Offenhauser manifold from a friend, buying a Spanish 32/36 weber kit and stripped every last piece of non necessary equipment off of the car. I'm just finishing the work up to get it back on the road. Quote Link to comment
Runslikeapenguin Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 OK, so! lets see if i have this right. 1. leave the sleeves be, to much work for the moment. 2. second line is a return to prevent vapor lock. (fuel boiling? :blink:) I dont need it i can block it off. If in the future it does get vapor lock in Seattle i can deal with that. 3. Just a vent all it needs is breather of some kind. Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 the sleeves, as i understand it, are actually an emissions addition- they are made of a metal (maybe nickel??) that's supposed to glow white hot under use, and help with unburn fuel... if you try to pull them out, you'll just mangle them. leave em there or get another head if you find a good one- peanut ect... Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 the sleeves, as i understand it, are actually an emissions addition- they are made of a metal (maybe nickel??) that's supposed to glow white hot under use, and help with unburn fuel... if you try to pull them out, you'll just mangle them. leave em there or get another head if you find a good one- peanut ect... ya they heat up to burn stuff off for emissions, but as far as flow goes the liners dont need to be taken out for a street motor (even a built one), they have a nice smooth radius and give good flow Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.